|Kas old harbor, opposite side peninsula from marina|
|Note Coca-Cola advertising|
|Fold down Coca-Cola ad and you|
get a nice bench. These are all over
the place in Turkey. Great idea!
Soon afterward we put out the pole on the port side and enjoyed a great day of downwind sailing all the way to Kas. We had hoped to swing anchor near the Kas Marina. This would have been possible except for 2 gulets that arrived just before us and anchored with stern lines ashore. That ended our hopes for a swing anchor so we hailed the marina and asked for a berth. We had previously emailed the marina to inquire if they were still offering the 'pay for 1 day and get 1 day free' promotion that they had the last time we were here in May 2012. That promotion is no longer offered but since we had stayed there last year under that promotion the marina manager kindly offered us a deal of pay for 2 days and get 1 day free. Okay; we'll gladly accept that offer.
When we first arrived in Kas Marina near sunset that day conditions were perfectly calm. It was easy to see why someone might consider this a good place to winter. It has everything one might want and is less than a mile walk into the town. Even a mid-sized Migros Supermarket right inside the marina. Every amenity one might want. But the last time we were here winds exceeded 25 knots and the docks were 'snaking' terribly. Boats had to be placed 3 meters from the docks. People were having to get into their dinghies in order to get onto the docks. I felt that walking on the snaking dock was not safe. We decided then that there was no way we would winter in the water at Kas Marina.
The second day on this visit the same thing happened. Winds were only 22 knots but it was rough enough to make the docks snake. Very glad we were staying put for another 2 days to let the weather system move through and conditions calm down.
|Kastellorizo, viewed from hillside while walking up to museum|
|Harbor statue. Really fitting for the place.|
|Approaching harbor at Kastellorizo|
Kastellorizo, or Castellorizo, is the name of this island on our navigational charts. In Kas, the ferry line advertises trips to Meis, which appears to be the currently favored name in Turkey for this island. The ancient name was Megisti or Megiste. It is darn near impossible to keep all these names straight and know that these all refer to the same place.
|And a closer view as we arrived|
|Hey wait! Is this Greece? Looks sort of Dutch.|
The ferry company collects the passports from the Greek Immigration Police; upon arrival back in Kas the passports are again taken to the Harbour Master and stamped back into Turkey on the same visa. One does not have to pay for another Turkish visa. Thirty minutes or so after arriving back in Kas, you go to the ferry office and collect your passport, now legally cleared back into Turkey. Cost of the round-trip ferry was 50 TL on the day we visited, about $25 each.
|Greek flag painted on mountain.|
Reminded me of Cyprus.
Many of the ferry passengers very obviously made this trip just to visit the Duty-Free Shop in Kastellorizo so they could purchase less expensive liquor, wine and tobacco. Turkey considers those items to be luxury items and taxes heavily. Much less expensive in Greece. We did not bother to visit the Duty-Free Shop. We don't drink enough liquor or wine to make it worthwhile to haul bags back from Greece.
It is also possible to continue onward to other Greek islands if one is traveling in that direction. A 3X weekly ferry connects with Rhodes, where one can connect either via ferry or flight to just about anywhere desired.
|Mosque minaret entering harbor|
|Could this look more Greek? I think not.|
|A perfectly Greek tiny harbor.|
There is sufficient room for possibly 5 yachts to anchor in the small harbor without crowding the ferries. There also is a town quay that accommodates maybe 15 yachts docked stern-to. I did not notice any electrical shore power pedestals, so probably all you get is just a spot to dock for easy access to the restaurants.
|The old and the newly renovated old.|
And, boy!, do they have restaurants. Small cafes with sidewalk tables right on the water's edge lined all the way around the harbor. All looked so good it was difficult to choose which one for lunch.
|This is a street. Believe it or not. Bill is|
standing in front of the 'supermarket'
and those are store displays in the street.
|The narrow alleyways are really the streets.|
|Love the doors here. The top sections|
open for ventilation while the
bottom sections provide privacy
from passers-by looking into home.
|Man coming out of his home doorway. Close only the|
lower sections and leave top sections open for
ventilation. Passers-by cannot see inside home.
We walked all around the harbor and enjoyed wandering the very narrow walkways between the very crowded buildings. There were several old churches that most of the tourists were visiting, but none heightened interest in either Bill or me; so we gave that a miss.
|Getting energy to hike up the hill|
We settled on a comfy wicker sofa to soak up the setting and people-watch, always good entertainment. Bill downed a Mythos beer (those are so large!) while I enjoyed a freshly squeezed orange juice. We needed to bolster our energy level for the walk uphill to the museum.
|Castle ruins; not worth the hike up, IMHO.|
The steps up the hillside were not too bad to navigate. The continual slope upwards after we reached the top of the steps were another matter! These uphill slopes do not bother Bill at all, but my mitral valve problem makes my heart pound like it is going to pop out of my chest. We stopped a couple of times to snap photos of the harbor below, and for me to catch my breath. It was only a short distance to the museum, thank goodness. I decided to forego walking farther up the hillside to visit the ruins of the castle. It did not look like much was left standing up there.
|First of the steps up the hill to the museum and castle|
|Very old planes in harbor. Many more buildings then,.|
|Memorial to those who drowned|
|Old jewelry from older coin|
|Looking back toward Turkey|
From the museum there were great views looking eastward to Turkey. Tiny white caps were still topping the wind-driven waves out there in the area not sheltered by the island. Glad we were doing a land-based activity today and not having to sail. Would have had salt splashed all over the boat!
As was the style in the 1600s, these frescoes are very dark and black.
|Traditional female dress|
We retraced our footsteps and found a stairway back down to the museum entrance. They had at least installed a handrail on the wall side of the steps. This would never be allowed back home. Way too easy for someone to fall on those uneven and steep stone stairs.
|Hardy oleander growing in stone|
The stairs led to a courtyard filled with all sorts of things; nothing special. But I was impressed with a small oleander plant growing right out of the stone floor. No dirt; just right out of the stone. Oleanders are native to Turkey and I am sometimes amazed at how hardy these plants are. No wonder these grow so well in Galveston, Texas.
|Old method of sponge fishing|
Tucked in a back area on the ground floor of the museum was a display of the traditional sponge fishermen. Somehow I don't think this is done anymore. This island was once known for its sponge fishermen.
|Lighthouse light covering. Would reflect lots of light.|
Also back there was a top section for a lighthouse. I was glad to see this, even if it was not an old thing. When we sailed from Fethiye to Kas we had passed Patara. Patara was once a HUGE port in Roman times but is completely silted in now. In fact, the silted in area forms the longest stretch of sandy beach that can be found anywhere along the Turkish coastline -- 18 kilometers or 10.8 miles. We could easily identify the ancient lighthouse, which supposedly is the oldest lighthouse in the world discovered to date. We had discussed what might have been used in that ancient lighthouse to reflect the flame out to sea. Bill speculated that hammered tin or copper could have been used; along with soot slaves to keep that metal gleaming. Here is a link explaining the Patara Lighthouse.
|A smaller "morning fish" at another sidewalk cafe|
|Biggest fish we have seen since arriving in the Med.|
Each floor tile is over 12" so that should give viewers
an estimate of the size of this amberjack.
After the museum we walked back to town and selected a place for lunch. We chose the place that had the largest "morning fish" that day. That is what the menu called the huge amberjack that had been caught by the fisherman for this restaurant that day. BTW, amberjack is called kingfish locally.
Our table was literally right on the water. To the point that I had to be careful to keep my chair legs on the stone pavement! Kept thinking that any second I would knock the camera or my knife or something into the water. Did manage to get through lunch without that happening.
|Our lunch spot|
|Castle in the distance up there.|
|Television interview for travel series|
|Interview in background right|
Finally it was time to board the ferry back to Kas. A quick trip back across to the old harbor; a thirty minute wait for our passports to be processed; and a slow walk back through town and down to the marina. What the heck! Just another mile or 2; we could do it!
|View of the mosque, right next to the bar, as we motored|
out of tiny Kastellorizo harbor towards Kas.
We returned to the main anchorage at Fethiye. Visited the private hospital one day for Bill to have a follow-up blood test that his doctor at MD Anderson in Houston had requested. Lab results show that Bill remains cancer free! Wonderful news! I think they will continue follow-up blood tests for several years. We fully expect the results to remain so positive -- or, actually, negative. Negative lab tests are what we want. All in all, life is great!
Nights are much cooler now. Autumn has arrived. This is the most perfect time for sailing the coast of Turkey. It is blissful and we are loving it!