Sunday, April 27, 2014

Final Goodbye to Turkey!

As soon as the new flares were delivered we departed Goçek to spend the night on a mooring in what we call Red Mooring Bay.  We have forgotten the real name of this place and do not care enough to bother to look it up.  There are red moorings placed around the edges of the bay; the only such bay in all of Skopea Limani.  Since the season has not kicked into full swing yet, we were able to tie off to a mooring and remain free need to deal with that dreaded long line tied ashore!  

Love this secluded anchorage.  Only inhabitants are in that hamlet.
Scenery reminds me of Moorea in French Polynesia.
This is not near Bozburon; it is nearer to Kos.
Next morning we motored out between the narrow pass and around the tip of the peninsula in very light southerly winds.  Making the most of the rare southerly wind.  It was so calm that we were able to motor straight across the points of the tips of the first peninsula and beneath the tip of Marmaris peninsula.  As we made that turn the wind picked up to 20 knots and finally we could sail for an hour or so.  Then the wind died and we changed plans and headed to Bozburon, where we anchored 2 nights.  Love that we now know the few anchorages that allow for swing anchoring!  Covered 66 NM this day.  

Another shot of one of my favorite anchorages.
And almost no one ever stops here.

The Harbour Master's office was closed for a national holiday when we arrived but the cafe owner next door said that we could clear out when the office opened the next day.  We returned the next morning and were informed by the Harbour Master that the Bozburon offices do not open for clearance formalities until mid-May and that we must go to either Marmaris or Datça.  Wind was 20 knots from the south so we headed over to Datça sailing wing-on-wing for most of the 25 NM.

Tiny cove in there!  This is next to our secluded anchorage
and off in the distance is Greek island of Kos.  To anchor
in the cove requires using a stern line ashore.  We opted
to swing anchor in the calm area nearby, of course!
Had it all to ourselves for 3 nights.
Clearance formalities were handled by an agent while we enjoyed a late lunch.  One is not allowed to handle clearance formalities oneself now in most ports in Turkey.  Outbound clearance was only 60 TL ($28.50) by the agent we used.  Thanks to Robin on S/V Endangered Species for recommending this agent, as the other agents' fees were higher.  As soon as we received back our stamped passports and closed transit log we stopped in a supermarket to find something to buy to use up all our Turkish Lira currency.  We left without a single lira in our pockets.  We remained there at anchor that night as it was too late to get farther west around the very long peninsula before sunset. 

The little device we use for internet access.  We were so far
from cell towers that we needed to raise it high to get
good connection speeds.  It connects via 3G, then broadcasts the Internet via Wi-Fi.
By 07:00 the next morning we were motoring west, rounding Knidos for the last time.  We will clear into Greece at Kos.  Most people clear in at Simi but we know 2 American boats who encountered difficulty at Simi and prefer to avoid it if at all possible.  Plus, we want to visit the island of Patmos as we make our way westward so Kos is the better point of entry into Greece for our planned route.

Bill raising our cellular Wi-Fi device in order
to get better connection.

Fresh OJ for our Coconut Rum sundowners

Bill's daily chore.  Squeeze the fresh oranges gifted to us
from Riza the day we left Gocek.

As we prepare to depart Turkey for the final time I remembered something written by Bill and Janet, S/V Airstream, in their blog of May 16, 2013.  They summed up the history and experience of Turkey so much more succinctly that I could write.  Here is what they wrote:

Three thousand years before Columbus 'discovered' America the Carian peoples inhabited this coastal area of what is now Turkey.  They were followed by Aeolian and Ionian sea peoples around 1000 BC. Between 400-500 BC Sparta founded several cities along the coast as colonies and the Dorian era began. Herodotus was born in Halicarnassus (modern Bodrum) in 430 BC. The Persians  moved in after the Peloponnesian War and then Alexander took it from the Persians. The Romans took it from the Greeks early in the new millennium.  With the fall of Rome the Ottoman Empire ruled until the advent of the modern Turkish state. There was an occasional war with the Greeks, of course.  

So when we cruise this beautiful coast we are immersed in the early history of western civilization. And it easy to see why civilization got such a good start in this part of the world. ......... The sea is relatively sheltered and coastal communications and trade were easy compared to overland travel. The climate is true Mediterranean, not harsh but not enervating. A human can survive here year around without being ruled by the climate but has to work a little to be comfortable. There are defensible positions on every headland and many well sheltered harbors. In a time before the Med was so heavily fished it must have been an easy place to find a decent meal.  ....

And, in a way, nothing has changed.

I love that final sentence.

A typical evening meal aboard BeBe while at anchor.
We shared a ribeye steak covered in mushrooms, Chinese
style eggplant, mashed potatoes and grilled Turkish red
peppers, served with our current favorite wine.
Could it be any better!

We have spent the past 2 nights at anchor in a very secluded *bay* in Turkey, after clearing out in Datça.  We have reserved tonight and tomorrow night at Kos Marina; as there does not appear to be a good anchorage at Kos there was no reason to rush over there.  Did not know if clearance officials would work over the weekend.  We waited out the rainstorms enjoying our time at anchor and getting back into the swing of cruising.  It was a rollicking and very rolly sail over to Kos this morning in 25 kts wind from the east.  We are now berthed in Kos Marina enduring a lightening storm with lots of wind and rain.

Upon arrival at Kos we followed the tradition of friends Mark and Cindy on S/V Cream Puff:  When go ashore in a new place, we "walk till our feet hurt and then drink until they don't."   We walked the mile from the marina to the ferry dock for Passport Police; then around the harbor to Customs and Harbour Master/Port Police.  Customs was closed even though both of the other offices said Customs was open; so the only clearance formality we accomplished was to get our passports stamped.  The transit log will have to wait until tomorrow.  We stopped for a very late lunch when walking back to the marina.

My feet already have blisters; we have devoured the first of what will be many gyros; Bill has rediscovered Alpha beer; and we are both worn out.


  1. You just passed us - we are in Marmaris awaiting the Sevenstar freighter. It is scheduled to arrive tonight and then we'll be on our way, using your blog to help us work our way through paperwork and find the good anchorages. Maybe we'll meet up yet. Have certainly appreciated all the help via email over the last couple years. Dennis and Virginia - s/v Libertad

  2. We thought of you today as we ate lunch ate Chuy's. Glad to see you are on the move again and that all is well.

    We are looking forward to your summer postings.


    Mark and Cindy


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