Island of Syros

As I mentioned in the previous posting, we are now moored on the town quay in the village of Finicke (a/k/a Finikas) on the southwestern side of the island of Syros waiting out another blow of meltimi winds.  This is a nice place for this purpose.  Shelter from the wind is very good, especially docked where we are.  BeBe is being blown directly away from the dock.  The quay turns at an sharp angle and boats moored farther down the wall are being blown almost directly sideways.  Boats on the other side of the quay (inside the actual marina area) are being blown stern into the wall.  We have the best location for when northerly winds are blowing, as is expected for the next 4 or 5 days.


There are at least 3 beaches nearby, only 1 of which is accessible by walking.  The other 2 require a dinghy for access so we probably won't be visiting those.  Our dinghy is stored upside down on the mizzen deck and that is probably where it will remain during our stay.  There is a small supermarket, a nice bakery, a meat market and a produce market all within walking distance.  And more than a half-dozen restaurants nearby.  Everything one might want except a chandlery, and we have no need of anything boat related at the moment.  Plus, there is a chandlery or 2 just a short bus ride away should a need arise.

Blue domed church on hill

Drinks on the quay

Yesterday we took the bus to Ermoupoulis (a/k/a Hermoupolis), the main city on Syros.  Ermoupoulis is located on the eastern side about 2/3 up the island.  There is a lovely large town quay located there but it is far too exposed during northerly winds.  

Big Ferries!

Another major detracting factor to this very nice quay located in the heart of restaurants and shopping is that a major ferry port is also located on that same quay.  These ferries are quite large and have very large engines and powerful thrusters that churn the water to a dangerous level.  There is no way we would moor our yacht against that concrete wall.  The ferries would cause it to be beaten up.  During the few hours we were in the quay area of Ermoupoulis we saw 3 yachts tie up; each very briefly to exchange passengers or for someone to jump off and go shopping; then these yachts quickly departed.  What a shame that this nice quay cannot be utilized by yachts because of the ferries.

Ermoupoulis

We enjoyed leisurely drinks beneath umbrellas on the quay.  Then off for a bit of shopping.  Shopping is NOT something I enjoy.  But Elisabeth said she needed to shop for 2 things.  

Shopping district

She had lost her earrings on the flights from Houston to Athens, and she wanted to buy a souvenir charm for her charm bracelet.   We walked down one of the narrow alleyway streets perpendicular to the quay area and discovered a shopper's paradise.  It was exactly how one might imagine a Greek town to be.  Narrow stone streets and sidewalks with brightly colored bougounvilla and other flowers hanging down in places.  Very narrow side alleyways heading off those streets leading to small cafes and restaurants.  Steep steps up hillsides.  Truly a lovely place.  I might not enjoy shopping but I certainly enjoyed the surroundings.

Blue domed church on hill

Shopping Queen

Elisabeth found some earrings that were acceptable to her, but Bill walked in and told her not to buy them until she looked at another shop down the street.  We walked down to the other shop and she found exactly what she wanted -- a pair of rose-shaped earrings that were the exact color as the blue-domed churches we have seen around Greece.  She thought having something this color blue would be a good remembrance of her trip to Greece.  She also found a small turtle for her charm bracelet.  The shop clerk added a small gift when she wrapped the package -- another tiny charm of an eye.  This reminded me of all the eyes one sees in Turkey.  Something about having an eye to ward off evil eyes.   Unfortunately, neither of these charms can be added to her charm bracelet because the openings are soldered closed.  She will need some sort of tiny circle with an opening or something to attach each charm to her bracelet.  I have never seen charms that don't have an opening for attaching to a bracelet or necklace.  Wonder how these are intended to be attached?

Ermoupoulis town quay

After the shopping expedition we read restaurant menus posted on the sidewalks until we found a place that served pizza.  Elisabeth really wanted pizza.  We found only one place serving pizza.  It was on the town quay.  It was really nice sitting beneath the umbrella in such a lovely place.   After lunch we found a kiosk selling ice cream.  If you are going to eat junk food, do it up right.  

Cousins horsing around

We walked back to the bus stop, where we waited a half hour or so for the correct bus returning to Finikas.  I enjoyed watching people while we waited.  The kids spent their time horsing around.  Zachary found he can pick up his cousin and then hold her up with only 1 arm.  He out weighs her by quite a bit and is 4-inches taller, yet they wear the same size shoes.  Totally different children, both physically and tempermentally. 


Each of us enjoyed our little day visit to town.  I had really wanted to see Ano Syros but we did not see a way to get up there.  While waiting for our return bus we saw a small bus offering Island Tours but by then it was too late to go to Ano Syros.  Guess this is just one of those things I will have to miss.  Can't see everything.


Ano Syros is a centuries old Catholic settlement, rather than the usual Greek Orthodox.  According to the tourist brochures, during the 6th century A.D., when piracy devastated commerce on Syros, the old coastal city fell into decline.  A settlement which came to be known as Ano Syros was founded up on the hill of Mesovouni.  Entrance to the settlement was through 7 Portares (large doors).  The 7 Portares were closed each night for protection of the residents, making it like a walled city.  Some of these doors are still in place.   Supposedly there are beautiful views overlooking Ermoupoulis and the sea.  Ano Syros was little influenced by the Ottoman Rule.  The Catholic Diocese of San Georgios is on the highest point of the hill, including the Bishop's residence and offices and historical study center and archives.  The Diocese's archives are on micro-film for those who wish to research.  Next to San Yiorgis (St. George's) is the Santa Claras' Monastery, formerly the Jesuit Monastery 1743-2000.   Throughout Ano Syros are picturesque small alleys, far too narrow for motorized vehicles.  I regret we were unable to visit this place.  But, hey, as I said earlier, we can't see it all.


Geography and history
Syros means "a rock cast into the sea."  It is located nearly in the center of the Cyclades.  From the hillsides on Syros one can see many of the surrounding Cyclades islands.  Homer sang of Syros and praised the island's beauty and agricultural bounty.  The hills we see around us appear rocky and barren, but the small valleys between the hills are filled with growing vegetables and fruit trees.   The name Syros was first recorded in 6th century B.C.


The tourist brochure claims that the first inhabitants occupied this island around 2800 B.C.  However, other literature claims that recently excavated human remains and artifacts date back to at least 4000 B.C.  The current excavations have shed much light on the prehistoric period.  The northeastern region being excavated includes many graves with their burial goods, ceramic vessels, stone compasses, statuettes, intact skeletons and ancient ruins, including the remains of a former Acropolis (fortified hilltop site) and watch tower.   


During the 8th century B.C. the Phonecians arrived on the island.  Then the island followed the typical history of the region:  Persian Wars; 4th century B.C. ruled by Macedonia; 1st century B.C. ruled by Romans.  The acme of civilization on Syros occurred during the Roman rule; then a severe decline followed.  The island was always overshadowed by its eastern neighbor, Sacred Delos (where we hope to visit soon).  Syros became almost unknown during the Christian and Byzatine periods.  The traditional Greek mythological gods and demi-gods relinquished their places to Christ and His Church.  During 7th and 8th century A.D. Syros was raided by Arab pirates, resulting in castrophe and the great plague.


Then the Venetians arrived; followed by the Ottomans (Turks).  The island declined into extreme poverty.    Thousands starved to death.  Finally, in 1821 there was a revolution (under French protection); and the island became a refuge for persecuted Greeks fleeing from every corner of their struggling land.  During this wave of immigrants the harbor town Hermoupolis was created, the commercial capital of Greece during the 19th century.  Hermoupolis was named in homor of Hermes, considered by some to be the old Greek god of commerce.  In 1861 the Greek Steamship Company opened its steam-powered foundry and dry dock.  Syros succeeded in becoming the central marketplace of Greece, supplying merchandise throughout Greece as well as to Egypt, Syria and Turkey for more than 50 years.  Then Athens replaced Syros for this title, and Syros again began to decline economically.  


Today has seen a resugence of economy.  More than half the population of all the Cyclades islands reside on the island of Syros.  This has become a very popular place to own property.   The shipyard and dry dock still operate.  And resorts are blossoming all around the island.  Tourism is very much alive and well in Syros.


BTW, just down the quay from us is a boat owned by a couple from Corpus Christi.   They noticed our Texas flag flying beneath the port spreader.  They are also flying a Texas flag.  Again we notice that Texans fly their state flag on their yachts; whereas, very few people from other states bother to fly their state flags.  These fellow Texans have very definitely taken the road less traveled.  They purchased their Bavaria yacht new and had it delivered to Slovenia.  (Wonder if that is outside the EU and therefore a way to avoid the ridiculously high VAT?)  They picked it up in Slovenia and sailed down through the Suez Canal and into the Gulf of Aqaba.  They lived in Jordan for several years and kept the boat there.  They said the Gulf of Aqaba is very limiting in areas to sail.  Basically, they could only sail 23 kilometers and turn around.  One cannot sail into Israeli waters in the Gulf of Aqaba nor into Saudi Arabian waters.  That leaves only 23 kilometers of Jordanian coast where they could sail.   They have now left Jordan and are sailing the Greek isles, with plans to participate in the ARC this year.  So they will be in the Caribbean in December.  These are the only people we have ever met who have sailed in the Gulf of Aqaba.

Shopping Queen is also DS Queen

Conquerer of the World

After our outing into town, both kids immediately retired to their respectives ends of the boats with their electronic toys.  Elisabeth to our aft cabin to play her DS (wearing her new blue earrings).  She enjoys animal games (wants to be a vet when she grows up).  And Zachary to the foreward cabin to play Civilization on his laptop.  I know nothing about this game but he sure enjoys conquering countries.  For several days he battled against Alexander the Great.  On this day he was proud that he had gotten his country's capital up to level 50.  The goal is to increase the capital's economy, happiness, production and food.  

Playing Civilization

He eventually topped out at level 57, which he tells me is an extemely high score.


As usual, click on any photo for a larger image.

Kythnos again, then to Syros

We had planned to stay at Kythnos for several days.  Then Bill checked the weather forecast and we abandoned those plans.  Another meltimi was forecast to begin in 2 days, so we had a choice -- either stay in the isolated bay on Kythnos for a full week and probably not be able to get off the boat for 5 days OR move now to somewhere that we might be able to dock on a town quay and be able to get off the boat during the high winds.  The kids wanted to stay put.  They thought playing DS and computer games all day for 5 days would be fun.  Bill and I did not like that idea.  


We checked the Pilot guide and the charts and decided that the town of Finicke or Finikas on the southwest side of the island of Syros would be a nice protected place to wait out high winds.  We sailed and motor-sailed the 27 miles to Finikas, arriving before 14:00.  Lucky us, there was plenty of space to dock on the wall in the area that we wanted.  This quay turns a corner and we wanted to be on the outside wall on the inside of the corner.  In that position the expected northerly winds would blow us away from the dock, rather than hitting the boat sideways.  Perfect location.  And someone even helped with our dock lines this time.  Shortly after 14:00 boats started arriving one right after another.  Well before 17:00 all dock space was filled.

World's Largest Hot Dogs

Since we were on a town quay it only seemed fitting that we should eat dinner ashore for a change.  The kids joined us in reading the menus posted street side at each restaurant.   They wanted pizza but that was not to be found in this small town.  However, they did find a tiny cafe that served hot dogs and hamburgers.  Those were the largest hot dogs any of us had ever seen!!  These were not regular frankfurters; these were huge locally-made sausages.  Sythos is famous in Greece for their local sausage.  It is the best sausage we have found outside of Texas.  Bill and I each ordered a Mama Burger -- which turned out to be 2 hamburger patties served with a wedge of lemon, slices of tomato and red onion and some french fries.  With no bread or bun.  Weird.  But, what the heck, it was food and I didn't have to cook it or clean the kitchen; so who can complain.  Neither Zachary nor Elisabeth were able to eat an entire hot dog.   But they enjoyed what they did eat.  They had wanted ice cream too but decided that could wait for another night because they were stuffed.

World's tiniest diesel delivery truck

The next day we saw the tiniest diesel truck deliver fuel to the boat docked next to us.  How cute.  If one can consider a truck cute.



Next was a bus trip to the largest town on this island.  But we are watching The Princess Bride now so writing about this trip must wait until tomorrow.  LOVE this movie!

Very bad experience with a New Zealand yacht painter

 Update:

November 3, 2014 at 4:06 PM

Someone emailed me and told me that Dale Pennington's Touch of Gloss is out of business.

What goes around comes around.

=======================================

Written May 28 and scheduled to post July 7, 2011 -- allowing more than ample time for Touch of Gloss to respond if they chose to address their defective paint job.  We originally contacted Touch of Gloss to notify them of the paint problem on May 4. As problem has not been addressed in a timely manner as an ethical company would have done, we now identify the culprit.  Anyone doing business with Touch of Gloss should watch every step of the work performed and confirm that correct products and proper amounts of products are used and that all steps of the painting process are completed correctly.  Our experience with Touch of Gloss may have been caused by an employee without the knowledge of the owner.

When we had our previous haul-out in New Zealand at Gulf Harbour in Whangaparaoa, BeBe looked perfect.  We thought this was the best bottom job we had ever had done.  Time has changed that opinion.  We now consider this one of the worst bottom jobs we have experienced.

The company was Touch of Gloss and the manager's name was Sean.  We do not remember the name of the guy who actually painted BeBe, but he was a young blonde guy.  The painter had removed the paint and epoxy on our cast iron keel down to the bare metal.  Then he applied 2-part epoxy primer.  This is something that should be done every-so-many years as routine maintenance.  He did a fantastic job on this keel work.  Then he sanded the hull bottom and sprayed the hull bottom and the keel with Micron 66 anti-foul paint.  The boat looked great and we were very pleased.  Our next anti-fouling paint job would be in two years in Marmaris, Turkey.

Fast forward two years from March 2009 to April 2011when BeBe was hauled out of the water and placed aboard a transport ship destined for Marmaris, Turkey.  Within an hour and as soon as the paint dried while BeBe sat on the deck, the paint began flaking and peeling off in large sections.  It was a total mess!!

Bill contacted Touch of Gloss about the paint flaking off as it dried when BeBe was hauled out of the water in Male, Maldives.  The shop owner replied that this was probably due to incompatibility with the previous paint when we had them spray on the Micron 66.  NOT TRUE!!  Bill fired off a reply email explaining that the only bottom paint ever applied to BeBe has been Micron 66.  We have the receipts for every bottom paint job since the yacht left the Amel factory in January 2003.  The only difference is that all previous applications of Micron 66 had been rolled on.  Touch of Gloss sprayed the Micron 66.  The other difference is that all previous times the bottom had been wet sanded and wiped with thinner prior to the new application.  Touch of Gloss did not wet sand; the painter dry sanded before spraying the new paint.  We do not know if he wiped the surface with thinner or not.

Two weeks later when BeBe arrived in Marmaris, the painters we interviewed showed us where the remaining sprayed-on paint was shiny in appearance; whereas the rolled on paint had a dull appearance.  Each painter said that this shiny appearance was because thinner had been added to the paint.  Touch of Gloss denies using any thinner in the spray application.

Dale, the owner of Touch of Gloss, requested that the factory representative for International Paints (the manufacturer of Micron 66) inspect BeBe and evaluate the situation.  On May 17 the rep visited and inspected BeBe.  By this time most of the bottom had been scraped down to the gel coat and new barrier coats applied and Micron 77.  But luckily all the areas where the support posts had originally been located were still untouched.  So there were 13 sections spaced all around the hull that the rep inspected.

His comment to us:  "Obviously something went wrong during the application."  The rep said there has been no complaints anywhere in the world regarding this batch of paint, so this flaking was not due to faulty paint; it had to be something that happened during the application of the paint.  The rep said he would write a letter to Dale, owner of Touch of Gloss.

In our email correspondence Dale wrote that he has "never walked away from an issue yet."  We have correspondence several times via email from Touch of Gloss since the International Paints rep inspected BeBe, but thus far they still deny any responsibility for this paint problem.  They cannot identify what caused the paint to not adhere properly but are adamant that it was not due to anything they did.  This claim makes no sense because all previous Micron 66 applications were still in place.  Only the application sprayed on by Touch of Gloss did not adhere correctly.

We have learned 2 things from this experience:

1.)  Just because a paint job looks great does not mean that it is a good job.  The real test is how the paint holds up 2 years later when the boat is again removed from the water.

2.)  Even a company with an excellent reputation can give very bad service. 

UPDATE 6 August, 2011: International Paints, the manufacturer of Micron66, has issued us a $500 usd voucher to be used as when we next buy any International products.  We believe this is a fair settlement because we will use Micron again and this amounts to about 50% of the additional cost to remove the defective layer.

Touch of Gloss Invoice

Getting around

BeBe cooked dinner

We stayed at Aigina Island for 3 night, as best I remember.  Highlights were Elisabeth cooking dinner for the first time all by herself.  All I did was tell her what to do and she did the rest.  I did pour off the boiling water to drain the pasta because that big pot was too much for her to handle.  The meat sauce was delicious.  She was very proud of herself.  Note for future:  if you want a kid to eat something, let them cook it themselves.

Peloponnese behind Zach, Bill & BeBe.  Our boat on right. 

Aigina Town quay

Aigina (a/k/a Aegina) is an historically interesting island.  The kids and I read the guide book and learned several interesting things.  I won't go into any of it here.  I want to see if either of them remembers any of the history stories and writes about these in their blogs.  Check out Zachary's Corner and BeBe's Corner listed under Blogs We Follow on our blog site home page.

On our final day in the anchorage it was time to find more fresh veggies and fruits and breads.  So we upped anchor and motored the 5 miles or so back to Aigina Town.  During calm winds boats can anchor just outside the town quay and marina area; so that is what we did.  We all climbed into the dinghy for a trip ashore.

Aigina Town quay

What a quaint little town!  Large, fast ferries of tourists arrive seemingly every half hour on the outer mole; but the inner harbor area is calm.  Like almost every other place we have stopped in Greece (except for Kea and Samos), there was nowhere to land a dinghy.  That has been my only complaint about Greece so far -- there very rarely is a place to take a dinghy ashore from an anchored yacht.  

Buying cherries

Bill maneuvered our dinghy up behind a large motor yacht docked stern-to against the town quay.  This was on an outside corner where the quay turned farther back in towards the town.  So our dinghy was right in front of a large fishing boat and at the stern of the large motor yacht.  Both boats appeared to be unoccupied and we were only on a short shopping trip; so we took a chance on neither boat wanting to move before we returned.  We tied off the dinghy and scooted away from the area as fast as possible before anyone could tell us that it was forbidden to leave a dinghy there.


Information in the Pilot guide was to walk south out of town and turn left at the Miranda Hotel to find the supermarket.  This took us right past a small beach filled with tourists.  Elisabeth was shocked at the very fat women wearing skimpy bikinis.  She kept asking, "don't they know how bad they look?"  Sadly, no; they apparently did not.

As we walked toward the supermarket we passed several vegetable and fruit boats.  This is something new to us.  We are accustomed to tiny local fresh vegetable markets, but not to vegetable boats.  But this makes perfect sense for this area.  The Greek islands we have seen thus far have been quite barren -- rocky and very dry.  Nothing can grow on these islands.  However, parts of the mainland have good soil and water for irrigation.  So all produce is either grown somewhere on the mainland or is imported.  These are then delivered to the nearest islands in small boats.  In Aigina Town the produce boats tie off at the town quay, and unload all the produce and arrange 

Bill on the boat paying for cherries

it beneath umbrellas on the sidewalk.  Makes for a very pretty scene along the harbor wall.  The local fishing boats are a bit farther south on the wall.  Glad they remain separated so you don't have to smell fish while shopping for fruits.  Much father south there were a few trucks parked alongside the roadway selling more vegetables, but nothing that we were interested in buying.


At the supermarket we loaded up with as much as the 4 of us could carry.  Then, on the walk back to the dinghy we stopped at one of the produce boats and loaded up with even more.  One lady insisted the kids taste cherries.  Both Zach and Elisabeth raved about how delicious these tasted, so we also loaded up on cherries, nectarines and a few apricots.   No cookies on our boat now, but lots of fruit for snacks.  The system for purchasing 


With the shopping completed, we motored south back to Profitis Ilias Cove and anchored in almost exactly the same spot we had left a few hours earlier.  We really like this anchorage.  Several hours later we were surprised to hear a voice calling, "Ahoy, BeBe!"  It was Clint and Adair arriving on S/V EMMANUEL.  What a total surprise!  We thought they were long past this area.   They plan to return to the Caribbean this December and we hope to remain in the Med for a few years.  We figured they were already in Croatia by now.  Turned out they were going to the Corinth Canal the next day.  They were as surprised as us to happen upon one another.   Way back in Phuket last December we had agreed to buddy-boat with EMMANUEL and MISS JODY through the pirate area of the Gulf of Aden.  They both did sail through the pirates and up the Red Sea; we opted to transport our boat due to the greatly increased pirate activity this year.  Thankfully, both EMMANUEL and MISS JODY made the trip without encountering any pirates.  This was the first time we had seen EMMANUEL since leaving Sri Lanka in late January.  


Side note:  we have talked or had email correspondence with 4 boats that opted to sail through pirate alley this year.  We personally know about 20 boats that made this trip, but have talked with only 4 since arriving in the Med.  One said they would have transported if that option had been available when they were making their decision; two said that they would tell anyone considering sailing that area today to flat forget about trying it; and one said they sailed the "safe" route and are glad they did it.  I am not sure exactly what "safe route" means since the pirates have attacked ships literally every section of the Northern Indian Ocean this year.  I do hope these folks do not encourage any other boats to sail that same "safe route."  At any rate, we are very glad that our friends made it through safely.


It was really nice catching up with Clint and Adair.  They told us interesting things about their visit to Israel (we might visit there next winter for a week or two), and they provided us with great tips about visiting more of the Greek islands farther south.  They took a completely different route from Turkey through the Greek islands than we did.


The next morning while winds were dead we pulled anchor and motored to the southern tip of Aigina.   Then we turned eastward towards Sounion.  Winds were predicted to be light and right on our nose.  But, as has turned out to be normal here, the actuality was different than the prediction.  Winds were light but from a completely different direction and we were able to slowly sail the entire distance to Sounion, where we once again anchored beneath the Temple of Poseidon.

Swimming at Sounion

Cooling her toes

Zachary went swimming off the boat while Elisabeth sat on the stern steps and dipped her feet in the water.  She said that water was too cold to get all the way in, but I think maybe she was afraid to get in water so deep.  There were hundreds of people on the beach (Sunday afternoon), and we did not want to take the kids ashore when it was so crowded.  The next morning we had the beach entirely to ourselves. 

Hot Milk Cake

Zach cooked dinner

That night was Zachary's turn to cook dinner.  He baked a Hot Milk Cake and peeled and cut up vegetables.  He stir-fried some and steamed others while Bill grilled marinated steak.  It was a good dinner.   We all like lots of vegetables.  The cake was a treat with Dream Whip and fresh nectarines.  Elisabeth had a few unhappy moments but soon recovered her self-composure and rejoined the rest of us for desert.   Sometimes it is difficult for cousins of the same age to get along 24 hours per day.

Building sandcastles

Enjoying the beach

The next morning we left Zach and Elisabeth building a sand castle while Bill and I hiked up the hill to the temple.  I was really surprised that 

Temple of Poseidon

Elisabeth did not want to walk up to see the temple up close, but she said she could see it well enough from the beach.  Zachary had already been up there a couple of weeks ago.  I needed the exercise, so we hiked up the steep path.  But once up there I decided that there was no need to spend another $12 for us to 

2 Amels; BeBe on right

walk around those old stones and columns.  Like Elisabeth, I could see it well enough from the gift shop.  We bought a bottle of cold water; snapped a few photos; and hiked back down the hill.  While up there we noticed that another Amel yacht had arrived and was anchored next to us.The kids were diligently working on their sand castle.  Now that we had returned, they got into the water for a few minutes.  Then we decided they had enjoyed enough sun and we returned to the boat.  

Very girlie fishing

The wind was unexpectedly from the north, so we instantly decided to pull the anchor and sail south to the island of Kithnos.  It was a beautiful 23 mile sail under perfect conditions.  At the strait between Kea and Kithnos the wind increased to 24 knots and changed direction briefly by 90 degrees.  In went the sails and on came the engine for about half an hour.  Then the wind instantly switched back to its original direction and we were back to sailing again.  








Other boats had the same idea.  

Southern Belle fishing

Five of us arrived at the entrance to the western bay at the same time.  Almost like a race for the final hour of sailing.  We were the boat pointed closest to the wind, so we knew the others would arrive before us.  And they did.  Except it took them much longer to take down their sails.  We furled our sailed and were inside the bay before the other boats.  So, they arrived at the entrance first; but we arrived at the anchorage first.

Baiting that tiny hook

Zach and Elisabeth immediately went to the beach, where they played until sunset.  I love this place.  This is my favorite place so far in the Greek islands.  

Fishing at Kythnos

Others might not like it so much because there is nothing here; just a very nice beach, one taverna (which we have not yet visited), high hills to climb and explore very ancient ruins, and a hot spring.   3G internet connection is somewhat sketchy; that is the only drawback.  We hope to stay here several days -- until time to find another market for more fresh produce.  Then we will have to go somewhere else. 

Finally a day of sailing!!

After leaving Zea Marina we motored south to Varkiza.  This is a very nice place when the wind is from any direction except south.  Wind was from the west when we arrived.  We anchored and washed a few loads of laundry and ran the watermaker.   We were the only boat anchored there.  Several hours later the wind had clocked down from west to south.  Not good.  Our boat was riding bow-to the waves.  The hobby-horse movement doesn't bother us and was not bothering the kids, but why endure any of this movement when a more comfortable anchorage is within reach before sunset?

First time sailing close hauled

Upped anchor and motored about 6 miles back north and around a point that looked on the chart to be a perfect anchorage, although it was not mentioned in the Greek Waters Pilot.  Ahhh!  So much more comfortable and calm!  Most of the way we sailed and were close hauled for about 20 minutes.  This was the first time BeBe had experienced this point of sail and she didn't know what to expect.  As soon as the boat heeled over she started screaming "we are going to die!!!"  She was convinced the boat would tip over.  I explained how the wind affects the boat when sailing from different directions.  This was the perfect opportunity because we left Varkiza close hauled, then turned north slightly and were on a beam reach, then turn more true north and were slightly downwind for a couple of miles.  So she was able to see how the same strength wind affects a sailboat as it strikes the boat from different directions.  She seems to be a born sailor, just like her cousin Zach.  Zach sailed with us for 500 miles behind the Great Barrier Reef in Australia a couple of years ago, so he is already an experienced sailor and knows all this stuff.  But she is learning quickly and will soon know as much as he does about sailing.

Sunset from unnamed anchorage

We stayed here 2 nights.  Nothing to do there because there is nowhere to land a dinghy.  But it is a nice pleasant place to anchor anytime the wind is not from the north.  There is a beach resort but it apparently is closed to yachting visitors because as we toured the bay in our dinghy a man waved us away from the beach area.  We weren't going there anyway, we were just looking around the area; but it was obvious by the man's actions that we were not welcome to go to the beach resort.   Our charts identify this bay area as Kavouronisi and it is slightly south of Voula, latitude 37.49.18N longitude 023.45.88 E.  Very heavy patches of thick grass, so use care in finding the perfect white sand patch to drop the anchor.

By the third day the wind had stopped blowing from the south; now it was a gentle breeze from WNW.  So we returned to Varkiza and anchored off the long pretty beach.  We took the dinghy ashore east of the tiny marina.  Bill let me and the kids off at the large rocks near a drainage culvert with nice flat concrete to step on and climb up.   Bill then moved the dinghy to the wall nearer the little marina and climbed up.  Ground level was even with his head when he was standing in the dinghy.  There is no way the kids or I could have climbed up that high without a ladder or something to step onto or grab onto.   I don't know how Bill does that.

Zachary directed us to the restaurant where he and his dad had eaten lunch the previous week.  Three of us enjoyed pork gyros, with Elisabeth just eating bites of the parts she liked.  She doesn't care for the yogurt sauce or onions, so now we know how to order gyros for her in the future -- just meat, tomatoes and bread.   Next Zach directed us to the bakery where we bought a few oatmeal cookies.  Elisabeth wasn't happy because she insisted she doesn't like oatmeal cookies.  Later when she had a taste, she changed her mind and decided that oatmeal cookies are indeed tasty.  

DS-ing while sailing

By the time we returned to the dinghy, the wind had clocked down to be directly out of the south -- the one angle that makes this anchorage rough.  So, up with the anchor once again to search for a more comfortable anchorage.  The wind was kicking up between 16 and 22 knots from the south by the time we motored out of the large bay, so it seemed like the perfect time to sail to the largest island between the Attica peninsula and Peloponnese.  This was the first time since arriving in Greek waters that sailing was actually possible for more than 10 minutes.  We enjoyed four hours for a 25 mile sail ranging from a beam reach to close haul.  The kids played with their DS games during the beam reach portion; with Elisabeth again screaming "we are going to die" when we were close hauled and heeled over -- with a huge grin on her face while saying she was scared.  She says she likes downwind sailing the best, but we see huge smiles when sailing close hauled so I am not convinced which she likes best.  Zach likes it all.

We first checked out the small anchorage just south of the marina on the western side of Aigina island, but it offered no shelter or protection from the southerly wind and waves.  So we motored farther south down the island to a small cove shown on our charts as Profitis Ilias Cove, latitude 37.41.96N longitude 023.27.93E.  The depth remains high until well into this small cove, then it shallows quickly.  Unfortunately, yet another beach resort has buoyed off the shallow areas for swimming; so boats can no longer get up to the best depths for anchoring.  We slowly nosed in and dropped our anchor about 1 boat length from their swimming buoys in 13 meters -- why do they need to mark off for swimming in 40 feet of water?

Not so easy to paddle a RIB

This morning the kids wanted to try paddling the dinghy.  Neither of them would accept our word for it that it is impossible to paddle an inflatable dinghy in a straight line.  They soon learned that their grandparents' experience was true. 

Paddling lessons

Bill insisted they help him wash the engine exhaust soot from the side of the boat (BeBe had a tiny lesson and learned that her "I want" does not take precedence over her grandfather's "I want"); then they took a short dinghy ride over to the next small cove.  The wind predictions are good for us to stay here again tonight and possibly also tomorrow night.  Our next stop will be either ESE or SSE; and, of course, those are exactly the directions from which the wind is predicted to blow for at least the next 2 days.  

Taverna in our little cove

There appears to be a little taverna ashore on the northern side of this little cove.  This afternoon we plan to take the kids over there and see if they will be allowed to play on the adjacent beach.  Maybe have a meal there either today or tomorrow.  This is a lovely spot and we would recommend it. 

View west from our cove

View west from Profitis Ilias Cove on Aigina Island