Day trip to Muğla

As always, click on any image for larger view.

Mom and daughters at weekly market

I feel like a Chatty Kathy today so this posting is probably much longer than it should be.  Yesterday we shared a rental car with friends Ruth and Randal on M/V DORA MAC and set out for a day of sightseeing in the nearby mountains.  Our first stop was the city of Muğla (pronounced MOO-lah), which was is the capital of the province and region also called  Muğla. 

Saw 2 Porsche Panameras in Mugla -- diesel!

This was a great destination for a day trip.  Muğla is situated at medium elevation in the mountains about 50 kilometers from Marmaris.  The drive up is mostly on newly constructed smooth wide highways and the views are splendid.  We had no idea what to expect to see but had looked forward to enjoying a day away from touristy Marmaris and away from the marina.  We were tired of seeing bare bellies and tattoos on fat 'down-market' British tourists that fill Marmaris. 

Many women wear these beige coats
over their clothing, even in this heat!
I do not know how they can stand it.
They wear leggings to the ankle, skirt
to the ankle, blouse to wrist, vest
over blouse; and then top it off
with a belted coat to mid-calf.
I would positively die in this heat.

And  Muğla did not disappoint.  Muğla was originally called Alinda and dates back as a city to 1200 B.C.  I'm not going to relate the history of this place, other than to mention than Tamerlane tore through here in 1402 and restored it to the emir of that time.  The Vakiflar Hamami (Turkish bath) located here dates back to 1258 and will still give you a steam, wash, dry and nap if that is something that appeals.  (We are not interested in having a Turkish bath anywhere.)

Found the store where those
"he-she' guys must shop.
We saw transvestites on bus in
Marmaris, which surprised us
considering Turkey is 99%
Muslim.

There were very few tourists (if any, except for us, of course).  Randal managed to drive right to where we wanted to start checking out this city -- at the Ataturk statue in the main road round-about.  From there we sort of got lost for a few minutes but enjoyed driving the extremely narrow old streets and soon ended up back at the Ataturk statue.  This time we turned an opposite direction and followed sign for the Otopark (See; you too can read Turkish!  Otopark obviously means 'auto park' or a parking place for vehicles.)  Then we set off trekking in search of the tourist office.  That turned out to be a much farther walk than indicated in the Lonely Planet guide.  

Lead domed mosque

When we got there, this office appeared to be a tourism office to arrange conventions or business venues or something.  We abandoned Ruth to attempt to talk to the man in charge in the far rear office.  Ruth knows some Turkish and we figured the fewer people in the room, the better.  She soon emerged with a few maps and a couple of pamphlets for a tiny village some 40 kilometers distant.  Supposedly 5 families still live in this village.  And it is the site of some ancient city.  Sure; that sounded interesting to visit after we finished  Muğla .  (will be next posting)

Ceiling inside lead domed mosque

Next we walked back to the ultra-narrow street area that we had earlier driven through.  Searching for some particular old Ottoman homes and a certain mosque that we had read about.    As we stood in a little park-like square trying to decipher maps I noticed a small mosque right next to us that had a dull-finished nondescript dome.  Uhhhh........could that be lead on that roof?  One of the mosques listed in the tourist brochure is commonly referred to as the lead domed mosque.  The real name for this mosque is the Kurşunlu Mosque (pronounced kur-SHOON-loo).  It was built in 1493 and originally had 2 smaller domes on either side of the larger lead covered dome. 

Inside lead domed mosque

 The other 2 domes were removed during a renovation.  In 1900, during another renovation, a narthex was added to the mosque.  There used to be a 30-roomed Muslim Theological School inside the mosque.  But judging from the size of this mosque today, that theological school must have been prior to a renovation that apparently made the mosque complex smaller.

Mosque upper side.
Why a boat?

Upper corner inside mosque.
Why a boat?

We walked over to check it out and there was a tiny old man walking around carrying something and yelling at another man who was sitting on the ground in a corner of the mosque grounds.  No idea what that was all about.  But the little old man noticed us looking around with lost expressions on our faces and he came to our rescue.  He did not speak a word of English but could tell we were interested in seeing the interior of this mosque.   And he had the keys to the mosque!  He very kindly opened the doors; we removed our shoes and walked inside.  

The other 2 upper corners had images of vases of
flowers.

We really were violating the Islamic traditions by entering the mosque as were were dressed.  Neither Ruth nor I had our hair covered (had no scarves with us) and Bill  and Randal were wearing shorts that did not cover their knees (which is a big no-no with Muslim men).  I'm sure we insulted the old man but he was very gracious about it.  

Prayer mats stacked in corner in
case you forgot to bring your own.

There are many mosques in this city; the oldest having been constructed in 1334 A.D.; but the lead domed mosque was the only one that interested us.  What luck to have just happened upon it so easily!   The interior of the lead-domed mosque is painted bright white.  Vividly colored paintings contrast on the bright white background.  This is very different from any other mosque that we have seen anywhere.  Unique.

Women's prayer area 

Outdoor ablution area for the mosque.  Notice the 2
women enjoying a picnic lunch in the corner.

Back outside the main domed area is the woman's prayer area.  Just a curtained off corner.  Gotta keep those women in their proper place.

Ruth gave the little old man a few lira as a donation to the mosque.  Not sure that the message got through and maybe the little man thought the donation was for him.  Whatever.  It didn't matter.

Outdoor clothing market.  Just like Mexico.

We walked through a small remote section of the Thursday Market areas.  First was the clothing for sale.  Vendors were set up for a couple of blocks near the mosque and took up most of the street area.  Ruth and I each found a couple of items that were bargains.

This was the tiniest woman imaginable.

Men socializing playing a domino game of some sort

We continued wandering the tiny old narrow streets.  The weather was mountain cool, as compared to the sea level Marmaris extremely hot; and we all enjoyed walking around.  On one narrow street we chanced upon several groups of tables occupied by men playing domino games of some sort.  And some playing a card game of some kind.  

Men socializing.  Women not
welcome.

There were no women present on that street and I felt a bit uncomfortable walking through there because it appeared to be a male gathering place for socializing.  Women are not usually welcomed.  No one gave me any dirty looks but no one gave any welcoming looks either.

Tiny blacksmith shop

Except the blacksmith was really
a cooper.

One of the places was like a tiny blacksmith shop.  Something that you might have found several hundred years ago.  Outside the tiny shop the blacksmith had placed shiny pots, pans and metal bowls that he had made.  Oh!  So he isn't a blacksmith.  He is a cooper.  Like stepping back in time.

Husky crossed our paths several times.
Notice the unique chimney tops

We continued to wander and encountered several more mosques.  Gosh!  I can only imagine what the competing muezzins must sound like during calls to prayers with so many mosques situated so closely together.

Figuring out the map in old Ottoman section

Winding narrow streets in old Ottoman housing area

A black Siberian Husky also was walking these narrow streets but every time I attempted to snap his photo he moved away too quickly.  





A couple of women with a little girl came to their doorstep to smile and wave to us as we walked by.  I motioned if it would be okay to take their photo.  They nodded but one woman motioned for me to wait while she re-arranged her headscarf.  They seemed friendly and as if they rarely saw tourists walking past their door.

Women waving to us as we walked through their neighborhood

Ruth in front of Lamb's Doors.  These open into a
courtyard behind this wall.  Then the house is farther in.

Public community water source.  These spigots are
seen all over Turkey.  The water is safe to drink.

Back down the little hill we wound and happened upon the intersection where the old clock tower was situated.  The clock tower was built by a Greek craftsman named Filivari Usta in 1895.  It is near the old quarter.

Old Clock Tower

The old quarter slopes around and consists of about 400 registered old houses dated from the 18th and 19th centuries, many of which are restored.  These houses are mainly in the Turkish/Ottoman style and are characterized by hayat (courtyard) sections accessed through double-shuttered doors called kuzulu kapi (lamb doors) and dotted with chimneys typical of Mugla.  There are also a number of Greek style houses, white washed and angular.

Held the camera up over a wall and snapped this shot.
Turned out to be an old cemetery.

The chimneys typical of  Muğla  are constructed of brick and have little huts on top on all 4 sides. We have seen a few of these around Marmaris, but this style is peculiar to  Muğla.  We saw these all over the city and also in the village in the old ruins that we visited later in the afternoon.

Massage your head

Massaging Bill's head.
It really tickled!

Ruth and Randal happened upon a novelty shop and bought some 'head massagers.'  We each tried the head massager and it felt like ants crawling on your scalp.  Bill was the only of of us who could stand it longer than 2 seconds.

Baker making snacks

While Ruth and Randal shopped in the novelty shop I entertained myself watching a baker make some of the little snacks that are popular in this area of Turkey. 

Finished product.  Yumm!

He rolled out dough into a small oblong shape (like a very thick flour tortilla, but oblong instead of round).  Topped that with some kind of finely chopped fresh greens and drizzled a small amount of dry crumbled cheese on top.  Folded up the sides to leave a thin line of green visible on the top.  Baked these in a wood-fired stone oven.  Cooled slightly and cut into bite sized strips.  Bill bought a few for the 4 of us to share.  Quite tasty when warm.  Not sure how good these would be served cold.

Window shopping for guns.  Very unusual guns.

Examples of how to modernize the female headscarves

After snacking on these (whatever they are called) we decided that we really needed a bit more to call it lunch.  So we found a short block with tables set in the center beneath trees.   Small cafes or restaurants lined each side.  We opted for a table in front of a tiny cafe that served nothing but Turkish meatballs.  These are called kofte and are like a small meatball that is flattened before cooking on a flat grill.   Remember, no one here speaks English.  Bill asked the waiter:  meatballs; moo?  meatballs; baa?  The waiter nodded and said:  meatballs; moo.  Okay, we will try 2 servings of beef Turkish meatballs and share.  

The little kofte cafe that serves meals in the street

Randal and Ruth at lunch

These were served with finely sliced greens of some kind tossed with finely sliced onions; about 70% onions and 30% greens.  Topped with 3-4 slices of fresh tomato.  Topped with 2 grilled very hot long thin green peppers.  And thick bread slices that had been heated on the grill in the residue from cooking the meatballs.  Very simple meal. 

 Perfect after snacking on the greens/cheese/tortilla things.

Weekly Thursday Market

Walking back toward the otopark we sought out the big Thursday Market.  This was the largest weekly market we have ever seen.  It went on for blocks.  There were a few clothing vendors in one section, but mostly it was produce of all kinds.  Table after table, vendor after vendor, for blocks.  It was covered and quite comfortable walking through there.

Bill found a vendor with a small amount of broccoli and I bought slightly more than 1/2 kilo (about 1.4 pounds) for a whopping 50 cents.   

Little kids sleeping while mom sells veggies

Americans cannot relate to this, but supermarkets here do not sell everything year round.  Produce is rarely imported.  It is all grown locally and very fresh.  Which means only what is in season HERE can be purchased here.  Everything is totally seasonal.  And, as most people know, broccoli is a cool weather crop.  It can't be grown in the high heat of summer in this part of the world.  This broccoli must have been grown at very high altitude for it to be harvest-ready in August.  Each head was pretty small.  I feel very lucky to have found it.

Brown figs!!  Wish I had bought a few more.

Bill also noticed a few vendors with brown figs.  Wow!  I have seen and bought a few green figs in Marmaris.  But this is the first time we have seen brown figs in Turkey.  I like figs; Bill detests figs.  I bought a small bag full -- 7 large, plump and perfect.  A real treat for me to enjoy over the next few days.  When I was a child each year we would go to an aunt's house to pick figs and my mother would put up several dozen jars of fig preserves.  My mother did not excel as a cook and freely admitted that she could make only a few things consistently perfectly -- cornbread dressing, shrimp & green rice, dewberry jelly and fig preserves.   She taught me how to cook these dishes; there are no written recipes; each is prepared by smell and appearance.   It is rare to find really good fig preserves and hers were always perfect.  I would have loved to buy a whole crate of these perfect brown figs and make fig preserves.  But, as I said, Bill detests figs.  Ruth has never tasted figs and she bought a few to sample later.  Told her it is an acquired taste and that she probably will hate them as much as Bill. 

Girl eating a fig.  Her mom on left wanted me to pay the
girl for taking her photo.

There were numerous small children waiting inside the market area while their parents sold the harvested produce.  One little girl about 12 was eating a piece of fruit and I motioned if it would be okay to take her photo.  She nodded yes.  I clicked and then showed her the image on the camera display and she was delighted.  Then her mother walked up and tried to get me to pay the girl for taking her photo.  Once her meaning was clearly understood, I just laughed and shook my head.  Nope; not doing that.  The girl said it was okay to take her photo.  She had not asked for any money.  Mom should take lessons from her daughter.  You don't ask for money after the fact.

I love the expression on this little girl.
 Notice that those are very full dropped crotch pants that she is wearing, not a skirt. 

Friendly women and children at the market

Farther down the way we found a few more little girls sitting on a Turkish carpet.  They were really cute and Ruth started to snap their photo.  One of the little girls ran to her mom the retrieve her baby sister.  Everyone was friendly and smiling and no one asked for money for taking their photo.  I hope this expecting payment for photos does not become the norm for this area.  For now, most of the locals don't mind if tourists take their photos, as long as one asks first.

Bill loves these peppers!
Think he found a large enough bag?

When we reached the fish section of the Thursday Market, we all decided we had seen enough.

They sell millions of these large
red peppers.  Not hot.

   

Can you identify the green veggies for sale?  Hint: okra on right
and chard on left.

 If they also had a wet market section, I wanted to skip that part.  Don't need to see or smell any hanging meat today.  We exited the market area and soon found our parked car. 

Wish I knew what this is.  It is sold everywhere and
often served in cafes and restaurants.

Next on the day's  itinerary would be a small village some 40+ kilometers distant.  A place none of us had ever heard of before going to the tourist office in  Muğla.  The tourist offices in Fethiye and Marmaris did not have information or pamphlets for this place.   We were headed to Stratonikeia.  That will be a separate posting.

Peppers are very popular in Turkish cuisine.  Here is a selection spread
on a table at the weekly market.  A very popular dish is to stuff the
small very thin-skinned bell peppers and serve cold as a starter to a meal.

Sitting in marina? Do boat projects; of course.

This has been the week for boat projects.  

First there was a new dinghy cover; custom made from heat welded UV resistant vinyl.  This is to cover the bottom of the dinghy when it is stored upside down on deck during long passages.  Or when berthed for the winter.  Whenever the dinghy won't be used for weeks or months.  We had a cover that was purchased from West Marine less than 2 years ago and it was well past worn out.  The new one should last 10 years and didn't cost much more than the original one from West Marine.

Next was recovering the nav station seat.  That has presented a problem because of the color of the leather.  All the suppliers want to sell a full hide or half-hide only, especially in this particular color.  We need only a small piece of leather to recover this small seat bottom only.  It is like a bar stool.  We need only about 57cm X 55cm.  Small pieces of leather are available in other colors but not in the color we need.  So that project continues.  We aren't giving up on it yet.

Next was the search for a dehumidifier.  West Marine no longer sells these machines.  And we cannot find one of any kind in any store in Marmaris.  That search also continues.  And we really, really, really must find one before the winter season.  The condensation inside the aft cabin was horrible last winter.  We caught it just in time before mold set in.  I don't want to fight that all winter.

Next was a new grill -- just wanted to replace the Magma gas grill that clamps onto the rail.  That has turned into a major problem.  West Marine does not sell gas grills in Marmaris.  Not surprising since it is illegal to grill or cook outside on a boat in the Mugla and Anatolia regions of Turkey.  Might also be illegal farther north, but I know it is illegal here.  The logic behind this law is to prevent the wooden gulets from catching on fire.  Makes no sense for private fiberglass yachts like ours or for steel or aluminum yachts.  We like grilled foods and will continue to grill at anchor until stopped by officials.  I really don't think they care how I cook on my own boat; they are just trying to protect the tour boat customers on the wooden gulets.  We have searched all the known stores in town and cannot locate a grill.   Yesterday we finally found the 'stainless steel district' of Marmaris -- where you can get literally ANYTHING fabricated.  We inquired about having a gas grill fabricated.  Sorry; the recommended guy said he made one once and prefers not to make another.  Guess we will buy more Magma parts on Ebay and nurse the old grill along a little longer.  There is one small Magma grill for sale in the chandlery here at Yat Marin but the price is absurdly high.  I'll give up eating grilled foods before paying that high price.

This SS guy has built rail mount enclosures for life rafts for several Amels.  Two other Amel owners recommended him for the quality of his work.  This is something we are toying with the idea of having made next April.  First we need to find out if our valise style liferaft can be changed into a hard case.   Although once we get back to the Caribbean I honestly don't see the point in having a liferaft any more.  A good sized dinghy and an EPIRB should suffice in the Caribbean.

We walked all over Marmaris yesterday.  Literally all over.  Really.....all over.  My legs were so tired by the time we got back to the marina that it was a struggle to make it back to the dock.  Discovered several new areas of Marmaris that we had not heard of before.  Lots of work shops.  Some retail shops.  And finally found the little tool Bill needed to adjust the tension on the hinge of the forward deck hatch.  It was so loose that it would stay up only about 4-5 inches.  Now it stays upright where you want it.  Now that should stay open correctly to scoop in breeze when at anchor.

Today we ordered a new custom made shade awning.  This one will be exactly like our old awning that covers the boat from mainmast to rear of cockpit, with zippered side panels and rear panels that roll up.  The old one was all white.  The new one will be a dark taupe color with white trim.  During our next haul-out we plan to change the orange boot stripe to a light taupe color, so this new awing will match the color scheme on the boat.   It cost 50% more than we estimated but is being constructed from real Sunbrella fabric and top-of-the-line quality zippers and vinyl trim and reinforcements.  Could have cut the price almost in half and used less quality components but this is one of those things that you really want to last years.  We had hoped the prices here would be good enough to justify also making awnings for the foremast deck area and for the aft deck area.  Maybe later for those 2 pieces.  There should be enough fabric left over to also make a cover for the outboard engine.  I am concerned that the shop will not use UV resistant thread but there is nothing I can do about that here.  I'm sure there will be lots of re-sewing as the sun rots the threads.  If it just lasts until we get to St. Martin, I'm pretty sure we can find shops with UV resistant thread there to re-stitch as needed.

And the last project for this week is a new mattress pad for the bed in the aft cabin.  We have custom made bed linens for every berth on the boat, including mattress pads.  Everything is still in fine condition except for the mattress pad for the aft cabin bed.  I have tried contacting the person in Florida who made the originals.  I know she is still in business and, in fact, is measuring another Amel this week which is just like ours.  Her business must be good because she has not responded to my email inquiry.  Today we found a local shop that makes custom bed linens and all sorts of other things.  Ramadan ends tonight or tomorrow night and everyone takes a 3-day holiday (or longer).  Shops started closing at noon today (Friday) and will reopen next Wednesday.  The shop owner said to bring in the old mattress pad on Wednesday and he will duplicate it.  The work should take 1 day.  The shop also has exactly the fabric I want to make a bed covering, like a duvet but not filled; something light for summer use.  I have been looking for for 6 years and this is the first shop that has exactly what I want.  So if the price is anywhere near reasonable then we will have a new 'topper' made for the bed.  Only problem is that this fabric is pure white and I would prefer a pale yellow.  Guess I will take what I can get!

Meeting friends for dinner tonight.  Very much looking forward to catching up and hearing about their recent 3 months in Israel.

The sailing vacation that never left the dock

Fishing behind our boat in Serce Limani

We returned from Selimiye to Marmaris, with an overnight stop at anchor in lovely Serce Limani.  I think this might be my favorite anchorage on this coast.  We always anchor just inside the entrance on the left, never venturing to the far right end where there are moorings for a restaurant (or 2?).  We enjoy being anchored and are not at all into the 'eat dinner ashore' routine that is typical of people cruising the Med.  There is evidence ashore that a restaurant might someday be opened at the west end of the bay where we like to anchor.  But as of this year, it is still uninhabited and isolated and exactly how we like it.

Underway to Marmaris in dead calm.  No wind and very hot
in the cockpit.  Sun was on deck so we put up the
mainsail so they could lay in the shade & catch breeze
created as we motored.

On the way around the tip of the mainland peninsula a charter boat motoring under sail and filled with French guests did a sudden tack just as we turned to go behind them.  We instantly did a rapid turn back to our original course as the French women screamed and yelled and made obscene gestures at us.  Really?  Is that necessary?  How crude!  They were the stand-on vessel (crossing from our starboard side).  We were supposed to give way to them and that is exactly what we did.  Why the heck they tacked to a collision course with us when they should have continued straight boggles my mind. Have they not read the international Rules of the Road for navigation?

Saw this motor yacht in Serce Limani.  Think they
would trade even?  This should be our next boat.
We will eventually get too old to sail.

Ahh, but as the saying goes:  what goes around, comes around.  After they tacked and we returned to our original course, they passed less than 100 yards beyond our stern.  The fishing line we were trailing played out extremely rapidly and hard.....right to the end of the line and right off the reel.  Goodbye to the new smaller lure we were trying out for the first time.  Guess these smart sailors didn't notice that big rod & reel mounted on the side of our cockpit with the fishing line trailing in the water.  And this is the 'comes around' part ----- we are positive that very long fishing line wrapped around their prop.  Serves them right!  Shouldn't act like that!

Practicing knots during calm sailing

A perfect square knot on his first attempt!

Less than a quarter-mile further on we noticed something white floating in the water ahead.  Bill steered toward it and turned the helm over to me and picked up the telescoping pole.  We treated this like a man overboard drill.   I approached it slowly; he couldn't grab it with the hook; I circled back around; on the second pass he grabbed it with the hook and pulled it up on deck.  A nice sized fender!  

And a less-than-perfect spaghetti-line mess on
her attempt to tie a square knot

Looked new.  Okay; I'll take the loss of a small fishing lure and 350 feet of fishing line in exchange for a new fender any day!  Fender this size = about $100 or higher, depending on purchase location.  Small fishing lure and line = about $20.  This is the second fender we have recovered from the sea since the grandkids arrived on 19 June.  We would return them to their rightful owners but have no way of knowing who that might be or where.  I'm certain these were lost off charter boats because we see the charter boats sailing every day with fenders hanging down in the water.  The drag of the water causes the lines to become untied and the fenders are lost.  Hope the charter companies are collecting lost article damages from these not-so-intelligent charter customers.

While anchored in Serce Limani late that afternoon I watched a local man in a skiff go shooting out of the pass suddenly.  A short time later he returned trailing a dinghy covered in burgundy chaps.   It looked from a distance like a very nice dinghy and not very old.  He obviously had seen it floating free on the sea and had salvaged it.  Whoever lost it must not have put 2 and 2 together regarding where the lost dinghy might have floated off to when it became untied from their sailing boat.  Because no one showed up in Serce Limani looking for their lost dinghy during the 36 hours we were anchored there.

After a single night in Serce we motored to Marmaris and anchored outside Yat Marin.  The next morning, 1 August, we moved into the marina to ready the boat for arriving family guests.  After much discussion with our son and daughter-in-law, it was decided to just stay at Yat Marin for the duration of their stay.  The weather was still very hot and several people just could not take the heat.  It would not have been pleasant out at anchor without shore power to run the air-conditioners.  The marina has a lovely large pool to enjoy daily.  Aaron and Lynn took a day-tour to Ephesus while we baby-sat.  Another day they took Elisabeth and Zach on a Jeep Safari Tour while 3-yr-old Damien stayed with us on the boat.  Another day they rented a car and drove to Fethiye and up to Saklikent Gorge and some ancient ruins nearby.
Info on Saklikent Gorge

Bonaire 2007--6th birthday

Turkey 2012--11th birthday
Grown a bit, hasn't she!

On Sunday, 12 August, Elisabeth celebrated her 11th birthday.  She has celebrated many birthdays aboard S/V BeBe: Bonaire 2007; Australia 2009; Malaysia 2010; Greece 2011; and now Turkey 2012.  It has almost become a tradition to celebrate her birthday with her grandparents in some distant place on this planet.  She hopes to continue this tradition next summer and celebrate her 12th birthday in Croatia (or, more likely, Venice).  

BeBe's 11th birthday

Belly Dancing BeBe

Since she was in Turkey this year, it seemed appropriate that she receive a belly dancer's costume as her gift from the grandparents.  Her parents managed to find her the 'iPillow' she wanted.  She saw this eye shaped pillow in the gift shop in Knidos and wanted to buy it.  She said that her parents have iPhones; she wanted an iPillow.  But the gift shop was closed and we left the next day before the shop reopened.  We have been looking for one of these pillows ever since and never found one.  Score for Mom and Dad when they did the Ephesus day tour.  Guess these pillows are only sold in the historical ruin sites gift shops.  Glad she got that pillow she wanted so badly.  Zachary has also been with us each time that Elisabeth has celebrated her birthday aboard S/V BeBe, so he is just as seasoned a traveler as she.  Unfortunately for him, his birthday falls in a month during the school year so he cannot celebrate on the boat.

Damien just turned 3.  Has a new nickname: Bacon Boy,
because that about the only thing he would eat while
visiting this trip.  Good thing I stocked up with a freezer
full when in south Cyprus

Very, very early on Monday, 13 August, Aaron, Lynn, Damien, Elisabeth and Zachary said goodbye and flew to Istanbul for a few days before continuing on home to Texas.  After a couple of weeks with 7 people living in our boat (mostly closed up with the A/C running), it seems awfully quiet with just the 2 of us again.   I spent all day cleaning, doing laundry, and stowing all the mattress pads and bed linens away.   Then each morning for the rest of the week we took the 09:00 ferry from the marina to Marmaris town and delivered various projects to the small shop that recently made our new bimini cover.  We are paid through the end of the month at Yat Marin.  Might as well make good use of the good boat related businesses located in Marmaris.