|Submarine hidey-hole. And other entrances into what|
must be tunnels from WWII inside that mountain
|Serbian POW camp with landing craft obstacles in water|
As always, click on any image for larger view.
And motored right back into the large center bay and anchored off Stradioti Island in our favorite spot for the night. Had we departed for Croatia immediately then we would have arrived after dusk.
|One of half-dozen openings|
(to tunnels inside mountain?)
Early the next morning we departed Montenegro for the 32 NM passage to Cavtat, Croatia. I made grandson Zachary wake up to see the submarine docks built into the mountainside that he had missed during our arrival last month. I thought he should see some of this old WWII stuff. And the Serbian Prisoner of War camp from more recent years. I still do not know what some of the tiny openings were used for. Would love to see a blueprint or schematic of what has been built inside that mountain. Certainly tunnels and places for guns in past years.
|Ancient Croatia defense at entry to Montenegro's|
Bay of Kotor. It is a delicate question as to which
country should own this piece of land.
|Montenegrin beer comes in 2-liter|
plastic bottles. A little large?
|Quarantine Dock at Cavtat. |
Do NOT go to that space to the left of that sign.
Leaving early in the morning worked out perfectly as we arrived by 10:00 to find only 1 boat at the Quarantine Dock, and he was leaving just as we dropped our anchor to back up to the dock. The Q Dock at Cavtat will accommodate only 3 boats. And clearance cannot be handled unless one is docked in 1 of the designated 3 spaces. Lucky us! Shortly after we docked 2 more boats arrived to fill the other spaces. And then a few more arrived to circle inside that tiny harbor waiting for someone to leave. One of the Customs guys helped with our dock lines. Bill headed off to get us cleared in while I fixed a late breakfast/early lunch for the kids. Part of the clearance process is a visit to an ATM to obtain Kuna currency (HRK) to pay for the vignette (cruising permit). VERY much to our surprise the Harbourmaster charges 100 HRK ($17.90) for docking at the Q Dock!! Granted, that is not enough money to get upset about. It is more the principle. Never before have we heard of a country or port charging for the mandatory use of their Quarantine Dock.
|One of many water toys to rent in Tiha anchorage.|
|A sailor having fun in|
Bill and I have been looking forward to visiting Croatia because others have told us how much they enjoyed this country. On the other hand, we both have been dreading visiting Croatia because others have told us how everyone tries to gouge the tourist. Charging for anchoring (sometimes ridiculous amounts). In general trying to
|A bit of a twist on the usual peddle boat to rent.|
These have sliding boards.
Clearance took less than 30 minutes. Next we motored around the point to the Tiha anchorage, which is one of the few free anchorages. Another Amel owner had told me that in September 2013 someone came to their boat and made them pay 150 HRK for 3 nights anchoring in Tiha. We stayed at anchor in Tiha for about a week and no one attempted to collect anything from us.
|Wearing grandmother's visor. Nothing embarrasses this kid.|
|Arriving at the tiny harbor of the old Venetian walled city of Dubrovnik|
|Tower on left side entering Dubrovnik old city harbor.|
We found a very good hair stylist in a salon right on the Cavtat dock area behind the berthed mega-yachts. Zachary got a much needed haircut. He was pleased with the results. I had mine low-lighted and cut. The stylist did a very good job of both cut and color. Hope to stop back in early Sept for a touch-up/trim right before we sail to Italy.
|One of the churches inside old town of Dubrovnik|
|Ornate decoration on exterior of town walls|
|On the main street of the old town. Bill in background.|
Others had advised us to take the bus to Dubrovnik to visit the Old Town -- the Venetian walled city and harbor that is supposed to be the most beautiful city in the world. The bus cost 25 HRK per person each way and it stops some distance from the Old Town. Then one must either walk what looked like a long way or take a taxi. The ferry/day-tour boat cost 80 HRK per person round-trip; and it stops right inside the Old Town harbor. That was a no-brainer decision for us = we took the day boat. Between the 2 companies offering this service, there is a boat every 30 minutes from 9am until 11pm during summer season.
|Beautiful stonework over entry to another of the churches|
|Many of the restaurants were in what I would call alleyways|
but are really streets. Streets that are about 5-ft wide!
|Daydreaming while waiting on pizza|
Oh...and we have learned that we pronounce Dubrovnik incorrectly (although I do not see us changing that pronunciation). The local people say doo-BRO-nik. They do not pronounce the 'v' in this word and they say the middle syllable with a hard 'O' sound. Catches me off-guard every time I hear someone say it.
|One of dozens of 'streets' in old town.|
Photo does not show how very steep
these alleyways are as they go up the
hillside at the far end from the main street.
|Pedestrian entrance to the Old Town via drawbridge|
|The main church of the Old Town.|
|Photo taken on the ferry to Dubrovnik. |
What is wrong in this photo?
Note the life jacket notice on the door.
Behind that door are stowed all life jackets.
Look at the floor. That door cannot be opened
because it is blocked by a built-in foot rest.
We motored around to the anchorage on the northern side of Lopud island. Plan was to stay there 3 nights and then return to the southern anchorage. We did not like this anchorage for some reason. Nothing specific; just did not care for it. There are small local boat moorings placed around the shore that limit anchoring space for yachts. There is only room for 2 or 3 yachts to anchor in this northern bay. We dropped anchor and Bill went ashore to dispose of garbage and buy fresh veggies, fruits and breads. As soon as he returned we upped anchor and motored farther up to a very protected anchorage on the northwest tip of Sipan island.
|Bill kitted up to dive and check out our prop and any|
marine growth on the hull/keel. He took this opportunity
to teach Zachary how to breath underwater.
|And down they go! This was not dangerous. They|
stayed right at the bottom of the swim ladder.
Zachary got a real kick out of doing this. Now he
wants to learn how to dive.
Next morning when it was sunny and beautiful we once again pulled anchor and moved even farther in toward town; this time anchoring with appropriate 6:1 scope in about 12 meters depth. We did not want to get on any mooring; do not trust those and they are spaced way too close together for boats of our size. Today granddaughter Elisabeth helped her Papa clean the seaweed out of the anchor chain locker. Normally we are very careful and do not let debris or mud cling to the anchor chain as it is brought up. Do not want a smelly chain locker. But during the sudden storm that night there was no time to deal with sea grass on the chain. She is the only person on this boat small enough to fit most of her body into the chain locker from inside the cabinet in the front cabin. Bill let out all of the chain and she used the shop vac and extension to vacuum out the blades of sea grass. Smelled awful! She was a real trouper and did a great job.
|Looking toward the town in the long narrow bay|
on Sipan island.
Tomorrow wind and swell are again predicted to come from the south or southwest, so we will remain here through tomorrow night. The following day is forecast to have northerly and westerly winds and swell. That should be good conditions to head back to Tiha anchorage at Cavtat. Elisabeth's flight to Houston departs early Monday morning and I want to be at the correct anchorage for easiest airport access. As usual, I would like to be prepared a bit early rather than be rushed and chance possible adverse weather conditions.