Memorial Day in the USA today. Whit Monday here in Carriacou. I had to look up what Whit Monday means. It is a religious holiday, 50 days from
Easter; so the date changes each year.
It is a rainy day here. Little
squalls blowing through off and on all day.
A good day to read books or watch DVDs.
Maybe route out a few of our future passages on Maxsea. Bill discovered this morning that Kick ‘em
Jenny is not shown on any of our charts. So he placed a marker for the volcano on both
of our electronic charts and added the exclusions zones, making sure to route
us west of Kick ‘em Jenny. Wish our
bimini was finished because we both are ready to move on. And weather forecasts indicate higher winds
for Friday and Saturday. Oh, well. As the delivery captain from South Africa
said last year about the weather: it is
what it is.
This afternoon between squalls we were sitting in the
cockpit cooling off. I looked up and saw
a boat named WATERMARK entering the bay and anchoring near us. I mentioned it to Bill and he immediately
started waving and calling to Cliff, who was on the bow setting the
anchor. Of course, now I remember. It is Cliff and Deb, a Canadian couple who
were at Coral Cove Marina in Trinidad last
summer at the same time we were there.
We invited them over for sundowners and had a rather late evening
catching up on what each of us has been doing since last September. It was great running into them again. We very much enjoy their company and their
senses of humor.
This afternoon Sanford and Son came to our
neighborhood. This trawler type boat
arrived and anchored right next to us.
There is so much junk piled all over that boat that Bill immediately
thought of that old TV sitcom called Sanford and Son (at least we think that
was the name of it). Bill wanted to pull
anchor and move away from this thing because their engine or generator was
really loud and they ran it for hours.
But we preserved and remained in place.
Turned out to be good that we didn't bother to move. This afternoon that junky boat started
dragging their anchor. No one was
aboard. Everyone had gone ashore for a
wedding. But someone finally noticed
that the boat was headed out to sea unattended, and they came zooming back to
catch it. They then pulled their anchor
and moved to another location in the bay.
Goodbye and good riddance! We did
not like having that noisy, stinking, ugly boat next to us.
Today we went ashore to Scraper’s for a hamburger lunch, and
ran into Cliff and Deb. They had walked
about looking for fresh vegetables and were then recuperating from their
exertions with a cold libation. Could
have saved them the effort of the walk if we had known they were in search of
fresh vegetables – there aren’t any on this island. And there are very few canned vegetables
either. Don’t know what the locals do
for vegetables because we haven’t seen any.
We know that if there are any fresh vegetables to be had that you go to
the hardware store in Hillsborough.
Strange, but true. The hardware
store sells most of the fresh vegetables on this island, when any are available
Our hamburger lunch was okay. We had lowered our expectations because we
know how limited everything is here. So
our expectations were met perfectly. It
has been such a long time since we have eaten hamburgers that neither of us can
even remember where or when that was.
So, even a mediocre burger was welcome.
This afternoon Petra
and Andy from In Stitches delivered the first 2 side screen shade panels for
our bimini. Petra did a good job making these. She and Andy measured and installed the
grommets to fit the latches already on the boat that secure our solid clear
foul-weather panels. So now we have
either solid clear panels for sailing in bad weather or if we ever are in cold
weather, and we have the screen-type panels for shade and keeping out flies and
mosquitos for use in hot weather. I
think we are really going to like having the entire cockpit “screened in.” And I know we will like having the side and
BTW, we also have a solid clear enclosure that zips onto our
bimini for use in cold weather.
Supposedly keeps the cockpit nice and snug. We plan to avoid cold weather as much as
possible, but that will really nice to have when and if we finally make it to New Zealand or the Red Sea
or the Med. Assuming that our bimini
remains in good shape that long! Who
knows how long it will take us to make it that far. If we keep up with replacing UV damaged
stitching, then the bimini hopefully will last several more years. It is four years old now but it is still in
very good condition. Our bimini is made
from a vinyl rather than from Sunbrella fabric.
It is holding up very well.
Tonight we had sundowners with Jaime and Dan on S/V
NEREIA. Jaime is a very good cook and he
served us dolmades and Texas-style hummus (had black beans, garbanzo beans and
jalapenos mashed in with the tahini).
Both were delicious. Jaime and
Dan are from Houston. Well, actually, Jaime originates from Ecuador; but they lived in Houston before setting out to cruise in their
35-ft Baba. Their boat is gorgeous! Has a lot of wood that requires a tremendous
amount of work to keep looking so beautiful.
And they do keep it looking beautiful.
We met Jaime and Dan at Coral Cove Marina in Trinidad
last summer. Great seeing them again.
Gosh, I had a hard time this morning even remembering what
day of the week it is! And I had long
since forgotten the date. Thank you Bill
Gates for putting it in the lower right hand corner of this computer
screen. Our days sort of flow from one
to another without any distinction for weekends. Tomorrow is Memorial Day in the USA, and it is
Whit Monday here in these formerly British islands. I have no idea what Whit Monday means, but it
is a holiday in Carriacou and Grenada
as well as St. Vincent and
the Grenadines. Trinidad and Tobago
have another name for it, but they also take the day as a holiday.
There is a sailing regatta in Petit Martinique this holiday
weekend. The small sail loft here in Tyrrel Bay
was busy working on sails for the past 2 weeks in preparation for this annual
regatta. We are thinking of sailing over
to PM this morning to check it out. It
is always fun to watch the local islanders sail their handmade boats. They are all so good at it. And each island has its own style of local
The boatyard here in Tyrrel Bay
is very small. It only employs 4 regular
employees, all local islanders. One day
this past week Bill watched them working on 3 wooden boats in the
boatyard. They are replacing various
worn or rotted pieces of these boats, and doing a darn good job of it. Their work on one boat in particular really
impressed Bill. They had a tree trunk on
the ground; looked like white cedar, which is supposed to be the very best wood
for boats and is normally only used in the most critical areas because it is
expensive and hard to find. This log
appeared to be well dried. The workers
would stand back and look at the stern of that boat to discern what shape piece
of wood was needed next in their rebuilding process. Then they would take a small chain saw and
zip, zip, zip---instantly they had the perfect shape needed to fit the
space. These pieces were curved and
angled to fit on the sloping stern.
Every piece fit perfectly. It was
a joy to watch them work. If anyone has
a wooden boat needing any type of repair, Carriacou is the place to have this
work done right.
Another unusual thing here in Tyrrel Bay
is the welding barge. I had read about
this a couple of years ago. Unfortunately
for us, the man who operates this barge, Dominic, left for a 5-week holiday the
day before we arrived here. We had hoped
to have him do the small stainless steel job that we needed for the bimini
modification. Dominic no longer brings
his barge to your boat at anchor. Now he
has placed tires and fenders along the port side of his barge and you bring
your boat to him. Just moor alongside
and he fabricates whatever SS is needed.
The only time he moves his barge is if there is a boat at the boatyard
docks that needs his work while it is still in the water. He will take his barge to the boatyard docks
and fabricate that job, then the barge goes back to its permanent mooring out
in the bay. He does good work and at far
lower prices than you would find in St. Martin, Bequia or Trinidad. Not as cheap as in Venezuela, but they use poor
quality stainless in VZ (probably only 304) and you wouldn’t want that lower
quality on your boat because it will not hold up half as long in the marine
environment as the quality 316 or 319 stainless.
We did receive our two 6-foot pieces of 316 SS tubing on the
ferry from Grenada
on Wednesday. The boatyard picked it up
from the ferry; Bill picked it up from the boatyard and delivered it to the
machinist shop up the hill that is owned by 2 German brothers. They are excellent mechanics for diesel
engines and they have a fabrication shop and can make just about anything. They normally do not do SS work and leave
that to Dominic. But since Dominic is
away on holiday, Uwe and Goerk bent the SS tubing as per Bill’s
at In Stitches should have the bimini extension and side/rear shade panels
completed in plenty of time for us to sail down to Grenada next weekend so we can
haul-out for our bottom job next Monday.
Papa can fix anything.
That is what Bill always told our grandson, Zachary. Well, apparently it is still true. Our microwave oven quit working the other
night. So yesterday Bill managed to
tamper with the tamper-proof screws (using a small vise grip) and got the
microwave taken apart. He checked out
various components and they all tested good ---- also managed to blow up his
voltmeter in the process. He thought
that all the female quick connects seemed loose so he tightened all of them. And the darn thing started working
again. Thank goodness! Trying to find a replacement 220v microwave
now that we are back in the land of 110v electricity would have been
impossible. Not to mention trying to
find a microwave with the exact same dimensions and with the feet in the same
spot so that it would fit in the pre-built space above our stove. The current microwave is locked into place by
stainless steel bars. Would be a hassle
to modify everything to fit a different sized microwave, assuming we could ever
find a 220v one. Thanks to Bill, we
don’t have to worry with that now.
I also came up with a new recipe this week. I have named it Desperation Chili. It sounds awful, but really isn’t bad. It’s a boat thing. Things that you would never consider on land
where you have large well-stocked supermarkets easily at hand are looked at in
a different light when you live on a boat.
All my Texas
relatives and friends should stop reading now.
You really don’t want to hear this food idea.
I made chili using canned corned beef. Now, doesn’t that sound utterly
disgusting! I posted the recipe on the
Captains and Admirals group on Yahoo! In the Files/Galley section. We were glad to find that this works because
ground beef is often not available. This
is something that we can cook anywhere because it only requires canned
ingredients; only fresh ingredient is onion and that is available
anywhere. To make this even more
palatable for Bill, I also made corn muffins and brownies that day. Maybe today I will bake beer bread to eat
with the leftover chili. I have a great
recipe for beer bread. Since I am hung
up on food right now, it must be time for breakfast.
Last year we when we sailed from Carriacou to Grenada we went down the windward (eastward)
side of Grenada. It was a rough day and was the first time
that Bill ever felt seasick. So this
year when we sail down to Grenada
in a week or so we intend to go down the leeward side and see how it is. The high mountains will probably block the
wind and we will wish that we had opted for the windward side again. Anyway, when we sail down the leeward
(westward) side of Grenada
we will pass closely by Kick 'em Jenny.
Kick 'em Jenny is an active underwater volcano. There are two exclusion zone bands around
Kick 'em Jenny. The innermost circle
covers directly over the volcano and boats are never supposed to go directly
over it. Boats are supposed to avoid the
outer exclusion circle on days that the volcano is showing more activity than
usual. The reason for this exclusion is
because of the gases emitted from the volcano.
The air bubbles in the water make boats susceptible to sinking because
the aerated water is obviously less bouyant for the boats.
So that got me to thinking.
What percentage of normal seawater must be replaced by air bubbles in
order to become dangerous for floating objects such as sailboats? To further complicate the thinking process,
one must remember that a boat also contains air spaces that increase bouyancy,
and each model boat is different. Our
boat is 27 gross tons (24 net tons), with a deplacement of only 16 tons when
This sounds like a wonderful problem for our math genius
friend, Terry. So, here is a challenge
to Terry: When you have nothing better
to do, please see if you can calculate the air percentage required to make sea
water unable to support our boat. That
should be fun for you.
Gosh, hard to believe we have been here in Tyrrel Bay
for 5 days already! This is one of those
places where it is easy to “bury your anchor” as the saying goes – meaning to
put down one’s anchor and not move again.
We have been visiting with other cruisers, either on their boats or
ours, playing dominoes and eating pizza and thoroughly enjoying this area.
Bill’s sister, Helene, was supposed to fly to Grenada today
to visit us for a week or so; but she is starting a new job instead. So hopefully we will see her another time and
place. As it turns out, it is good that
her visit got canceled; because we want to remain here in Carriacou in hopes of
getting our bimini changes completed.
Nothing is ever easy.
As I think we mentioned earlier, the guy who does stainless
steel work departed for a 5-week holiday the day before we arrived here. Petra,
the worman who does bimini sewing, will not make the bimini changes and shade
panels until we have the new stainless steel support bars in place at the rear
of the cockpit. Catch 22.
Well, looks like we might have things worked out.
We talked to Tim, who manages the little boat yard here in
Carriacou. Tim helped us locate two
6-foot pieces of 3/4-inch 316 stainless steel tubing in Grenada and
arranged for these to be delivered on the ferry tomorrow. Tim isn’t sure how we will pay for
these. We might have to find the seller
and pay him when we get to Grenada. Then we talked with Goerk, (pronounced like York) a local machinist,
who said he can fabricate these SS tubing pieces into what we need. It should only take Goerk a few hours to
complete this little job. As soon as the
bars are in place then Petra
will come back to our boat and obtain exact measurements. She has all the materials in stock (thank
goodness our bimini is white because that is the only color she stocks) and
should be able to complete the job next week, giving us time to spare before we
must be in Grenada on June 3. We have a
haul-out scheduled at Spice Island Boatyard at 8:00 a.m. on June 4 for our
annual bottom job, so we must be in Prickly
Bay by afternoon June 3.
This week saw our first physical injury on the boat. Bill dropped a floor locker lid on his
toe. His toe was at the short end of the
lid near the rear edge hinge, so the full weight of the 4-foot long lid fell
squarely on top of his big toe. It looks
nasty and he definitely will lose that nail.
He wouldn’t let me get near it.
So much for medical training.
Useless if the patient refuses to let you see the wound. By the third day it was causing shooting
pains so he finally relented and agreed that a needle should be inserted to
relieve the pressure. But he insisted on
doing it himself. Wasn’t going to let me
touch that painful toe. So I burned a
needle and had the hydrogen peroxide ready.
He inserted the needle in several places and released a lot of blood and
cleaned the injury well. Then we put on
a bandage and wrapped in tape so that the loose nail won’t get knocked off
quite yet. The pain subsided noticeably
and he can walk again. Still looks nasty
and will probably take more than a year to grow a new toenail. Bet he never lets his foot get near a raised
floor locker or deck locker again.
Lessons learned by pain are usually learned well.
One day I heard a siren, which is a strange sound on a small
Caribbean island. I told Bill that it sounded like a police
siren – but they don’t have police cars on this island. He suggested that it might be an ambulance –
but they don’t have ambulances on this island.
Then he suggested that it might be a fire truck. Well, never saw a fire truck; but it was a
fire siren. It has been so dry on a lot
of the Caribbean islands this year that they
are having problems with brush fires.
Carriacou had a brush fire. It
was soon brought under control. Our boat
is covered in brown dust. And the
islands need the rain so each family can grow their own vegetables. Hope it rains soon.
We motored over here from Salt Whistle
morning. Linda and Bob on S/V VILLOMEE
followed us since this was their first visit to the Cays. It is nice to be able to follow another boat
so you are sure that you won’t hit any of the reefs or rocks or shallow
spots. You really cannot rely on your
electronic charts in the Tobago Cays.
The C-Map charts are definitely wrong as they show that we sail over
land. Later we both took our dinghies
out to one of the balls on Horseshoe Reef to snorkel. The current was so strong that I did not
enjoy that at all. So we soon abandoned
that area for snorkeling and moved over to the lee of one of Baradel
island. The current was still pretty
strong even in the lee of that small island.
We saw several sea stars (the things we always called starfish) but they
were all the small orange-red color so they all looked alike. Linda and Bob snorkeled to a different area
and found turtles. Linda said one of
them was about 5-feet across. The
turtles were feeding and Linda was able to swim directly above one for a good
bit of time. A turtle cannot see
directly above. When the turtle finally
did turn so that he could see Linda, he was startled as if “Where did you come
from?” Then he wanted to swim away from
This morning Linda and Bob went back out to Horseshoe Reef
and said the snorkeling was wonderful.
We now realize our error yesterday – we went out on the reef to snorkel
at high tide. No wonder the current was
so strong. This morning Linda and Bob
were out there during low tide and said that it was perfectly calm. But we screwed up. We decided to go after lunch and by then it
was high tide again. Then is got cloudy
during the afternoon so we never made it back out to the reef for the good
snorkeling. Instead the four of us
played dominoes again in the comfort of our saloon. Tomorrow we plan to go over to Union Island
and clear out of St. Vincent
and the Grenadines. Next stop is Carriacou.
12.27.363N; 061.29.324W Sailed
19 NM Average speed almost 8 knots!
Love reaching and going with the current!
We half-motored and half-sailed through the southern
passage, finding our way through the reefs
between the Tobago Cays and Clifton on Union Island. S/V VILLOMEE followed us out through the
reefs and then they headed over to Palm
Island and we turned into the bay at Clifton. Several people had told us that Clifton is
very crowded with permanent moorings and the few places where you can anchor
has poor holding, and they had advised us to go to Ashton and take a taxi/bus
to Clifton to clear out of St. Vincent and the Grenadines. We decided to try the bay at Clifton and see for
ourselves. Turned out to be a wise
We paid a water taxi guy 40EC (about $15 USD) to put us on a
mooring and take me ashore so that I could clear out (since I am on the
paperwork as the captain). He first
asked for 60EC and we refused so he quickly dropped his price to 40EC. That seemed like a reasonable fee and kept us
from having to take the dinghy off the davits.
Bill stayed onboard to monitor the boat since we obviously did not trust
the mooring. I cleared out with Customs
in the main town of Clifton and then walked to the airport to clear us out with
Immigration; walked back to town and found a bank to get more Eastern Caribbean
currency; found a grocery store for fresh bread and something called canned
chicken salami (the photo on the can shows it sliced on sandwiches; this should
be interesting); and the water taxi guy brought me back to the boat. Simple and fast clearing out.
Then we had an absolutely fantastic sail downwind to
Hillsborough, where we cleared into Carriacou.
The island of Carriacou is part of Grenada
so that means we won’t have to bother with clearing in when we arrive at the
main island of Grenada
in a couple of weeks. The very pleasant
young man working in the Immigration office at Hillsborough told us that he was
from a very large family – his grandfather had 36 children! I asked if his grandfather had more than one
wife and learned that he did indeed have only one wife. But he also had 2 “ladies.” I didn’t ask how many children were delivered
from each of these 3 women. Heck, that
averages to a dozen for each woman anyway!
After a quick lunch of yet more homegrown tomatoes on fresh
baguette (Bill wasn’t brave enough to try the Halal canned chicken salami yet),
we again enjoyed another short downwind sail to Tyrrel Bay. The sailing was simply superb today. Wind was 22-30 knots off our port stern. There were large rolling waves from the same
direction, but they were spaced far apart and the ride was very comfortable. Bill had the sails double reefed and the boat
was balanced perfectly. It was a lot of
fun. Wish all sailing could be like
Here in Tyrrel
Bay we found a number of
our cruising friends already at anchor.
Tonight 9 of us cruisers got together at a pizza place. Pizza was great and it was a fun evening. Someone in the group gave us the code to log
into the WiFi here in Tyrrel
Bay. So finally we can update this website.
Mayreau Sailed 1 NM
Wednesday evening about a dozen of us walked up the hill in Saline Bay
to a bar for sundowners. The bar was
closed because the owner was remodeling his house next door, but he quickly saw
the benefit of stopping his manual labor and re-opening his bar to serve
us. It was a fun evening and we met some
more cruisers. Once Dutch couple sailed
from Holland to the Caribbean in 1997 and are
still sailing around just in the Caribbean. The saying is: The EC is EZ – translated: The Eastern Caribbean is easy. And it is.
It is very easy to sail up and down the island chain here in the Eastern Caribbean because none of the islands are very
Thursday evening we all again got together for sundowners,
this time on the beach. The flies were
terrible on the beach and I was bitten several dozen times, mostly on my
face. I know better than to go onto a
beach dressed like everyone else – insects love to bite me more that most
people. Everyone jokes: “Stand next to Judy; the bugs will be so busy
biting her that they will ignore you.”
So I wore long pants and long sleeved shirt in the heat and slathered on
insect repellent in an effort to avoid getting bitten. Now my face is all swollen and itchy. Don’t know why the bugs love me so much and
This morning Bill decided that the flies were too bad. There was also a horrible “latrine” odor in Saline Bay. Bill thinks that the restrooms built on the
beach were overrun by the passengers on the Spanish cruise ship on Tuesday and
that the septic system is overflowing.
Whatever the cause, the odor was too offensive for us to remain there
today. So we weighed anchor and headed
over the north side of Mayreau, intending to go back to the Tobago Cays. The winds are calmer today and it should be
nice again over there. Just as we
rounded the northwestern tip of Mayreau and set course for Tobago Cays, we
heard a VHF radio hail for BEBE. It was
Bob and Linda on VILLOMEE. They were
enroute from Canouan to Salt
on Mayreau and wanted to get together for drinks. So we did a 180 and whipped into Salt Whistle
We just love Salt
Whistle Bay. It is so very pretty and calm. It does get quite crowded (especially with
charter boats) and many cruisers refuse to come in here for that reason. But that doesn’t bother us and we love it
here. In fact, there is a small Sunsail
boat anchored off our starboard side tonight.
It is anchored too close for comfort but we didn’t tell him to move because
there isn’t any more available anchoring space in this bay. We don’t think he will swing into our boat
during the night, but if he does then at least we know that all Sunsail boats
are insured – and most cruising boats don’t carry insurance. So we would rather have that insured charter
boat anchored too close to us than to have an uninsured cruising boat anchored
too close to us.
We visited VILLOMEE for drinks and visiting this
afternoon. A nice time.
Spent the past few days doing what we do best – reading
during the day and visiting with other people for sundowners on either our boat
or theirs. We have learned to fit right
into the cruiser mode. Bob and Linda on
VILLOMEE came over this afternoon and we taught them to play Mexican Train
dominoes. Our cockpit table folds out to
accommodate 6, so it is a good place to play the game under the shade awning
when there are cool breezes.
It was nice and breezy today – so breezy, in fact, that the
wind blew one of Bill’s dominoes off the table.
It landed on the cockpit floor and bounced down into the small scupper
opening that encircles the cockpit floor – and it went right down the cockpit
drain! What are the chances of that
happening? There was only one 2-inch
drain opening on that side of the cockpit and that domino bounced right
straight through it! This is a bad thing
because if one domino is missing then the set is ruined; you cannot play
dominoes unless the set is complete.
Luckily, Bill was able to don snorkel mask and dive under the boat and
he found that domino right away! We are
anchored in only about 10-12 feet water depth, and the water is crystal
clear. Bob hung our dinghy anchor over
the side of the boat aligned with the cockpit drain opening. This gave Bill a reference point to follow
the arc of the boat swinging.
Fortunately the bottom was plain sand beneath our boat so Bill was able
to spot the domino right away. The
dominoes are white with brightly colored dots, a different color for each
number of the set. Luck was with us
because that domino landed with the colored dots facing upward which enabled
Bill to spot it right away. It would
have been much harder to spot the solid white domino top lying on the white
sand. The colored dots helped him locate
it. Still can’t believe he was able to
retrieve it so easily.
We were invited to accompany some other people to dinner at
a restaurant ashore tonight, but I was bitten so badly by insects the last time
we went ashore in Saline
Bay that Bill didn’t
think we should venture ashore here again.
My face is covered with large welts; he does not want me to suffer with
any additional insect bites unnecessarily, so we declined the invitation for
tonight. Tomorrow we will move back to
Several vendors stopped by yesterday attempting to sell us
various things. One guy, Walter, wanted
to sell us breads. We didn’t need bread
but we asked if he could get us 6 tomatoes.
This morning he arrived with 6 large tomatoes fresh from his
sister-in-law’s garden at a cost of $20 EC or $7.40 USD. These tomatoes tasted wonderful – grown
naturally with no fertilizers or chemicals.
Delivered to our boat for lower price than we would have paid at the
produce market in Bequia. We also bought
a baguette from Walter and it was good also.
Yum, fresh tomato on baguette sandwich for lunch, accompanied by a bowl
of French style vegetable soup.
Bill also bought me another pretty blue pareo from one of
the vendors. Think that will be the end
of our boat boy shopping here in the Tobago Cays. But we will be buying more bread from Walter
The Tobago Cays are incredibly gorgeous. It is impossible to sit and read in the
cockpit because the view is so spectacular that it interrupts and grabs our
attention. There are far fewer boats
here than were here last May. We have
noticed this to be true at every island we have visited along the entire island
chain of the West Indies. We are visiting these islands at about the
same time as last year but there are far, far fewer boats at each island. Where did everybody go?
12.38.042N; 061.23.844W Motored
approximately 5 NM
Winds picked up during the night and were predicted to
increase another 2-5 knots today. We
could no longer even see World’s End Reef, the outermost reef off the Tobago
Cays. The Atlantic
had covered it without showing any more breaking waves. We were anchored behind Horseshoe Reef where
you are supposed to anchor and it wasn’t particularly rough there; in fact it
was so calm that neither of us had disturbed sleep during the night. But there was no reason to stay there since
it was too windy to snorkel the reefs or dinghy to the beaches so we pulled
anchor and weaved our way westward through the reefs to Mayreau. (Actually there was one reason to stay: we had invited Mer and Nadine on SQUIZ to
join us for sundowners today; but I called them on the radio and canceled the
invitation and we agreed to meet up another time somewhere. How rude of us!) We are now anchored on the western side of
Mayreau in Saline
Bay and it is nice and
calm. Winds are still a bit high but the
water is much calmer here.
Last time we were in this bay was about 1985 or 1986 and
there were only a few small houses and the one 300 foot road to nowhere. There was a large concrete dock connected to
the concrete road. The road led up the
hill and stopped where a few houses were built.
There was no electricity on Mayreau and the people were very poor. Once a month a supply boat would bring basic
provisions down from the main island
of St. Vincent. We were so moved by how poor everyone was and
the fact that there were elementary school age children living here who got
excited by a pencil and paper that when we returned to Houston Judy put
together boxes of school supplies and had them shipped down here via a
Electricity finally arrived on Mayreau just a few years
ago. And there are now 3 to 4 times more
houses on the island than there were 20 years ago, which means that it is still
very sparsely populated. There are even
a few basic restaurants scattered around the island and one “beach hotel” in Saltwhistle Bay.
Saline Bay has a pretty white sand beach with
lots of palm trees. There were 2 guys
out raking the beach today and there chaise lounges are stacked in several
places for when the pocket cruise ships or Windjammer ships arrive. A very nice quiet place.
BTW, the arrogant Brit who refused to pay in Mustique and
left after dark and then chickened out and turned around in the channel to the
Tobago Cays has surfaced again. Friends
told us that he is now anchored right in the middle of the channel between the
islands at Tobago Cays. That is a very
narrow space and he is blocking egress.
This idiot has no seamanship skills whatsoever.
Bill find entertainment on the VHF radio listening to the
Moorings calls. Today was a classic:
Charter Customer (woman):
Moorings, we need another dinghy.
Moorings: Has your
dinghy been lost or damaged?
Charter Customer: No,
the gas container is leaking and the bottom of the inside of the dinghy is oily
and dirty with gasoline.
Moorings: So do you
need a replacement outboard engine or a replacement dinghy?
Well, the gas container is leaking so we need a new gas container, and a
new outboard and a new dinghy.
Moorings: Is there
something wrong with the dinghy and the outboard as well as something wrong
with the gas container?
Charter Customer: No
the outboard works fine and the dinghy is okay, but it is dirty and slippery
and dangerous because someone could slip and fall in it.
Moorings: We will
send someone out with a new gasoline container and he will check out the dinghy
and outboard while he is there.
Now, how dumb is that.
My dinghy is dirty; please send a replacement. No wonder charter customers have a bad
reputation. (Later note: I mentioned this incident to a land-based
friend via email and she had a different take on it. She and her husband charter several times
each year. She felt like the charter
customer was correct in calling Moorings for a new dinghy because for as much
as these vacations cost the customer should not be expected to repair things or
clean things. Not sure I totally agree
with that outlook because sailors should know that on a boat things are always
needing to be fixed or cleaned; I think cleaning up something spilled inside a
dinghy should be a normal task for whoever is using that dinghy. But if I had paid $5,000 for a week on that
boat then I might feel differently about the matter. Just goes to show you that there are always
at least 2 opinions on anything.)
Moorings catamaran was out at Mustique when we were there last week. They left both air conditioners running while
they went ashore for the entire day for 2 days in a row. So the generator and a/c units were running
for at least 60 hours straight that we know about, and probably had been
running constantly during their entire charter.
And it wasn't even really all that hot.
At night it was too cool for us to sit in the cockpit without shirts
with sleeves, and they were still running their a/c units. On the third day we
heard them hailing Moorings that they were returning to the base because they
were out of diesel. Bill couldn't
resist. He chimed in unidentified on the
radio and said "that's what happens when you leave the generator and a/c
running for days when you aren't even on the boat--you run out of
fuel." I would never own a charter
boat with a generator on it. The charter
customers would burn the darn thing up.
and Roberta on ALLELUIA! and Ed and Linda on DREAMTIME are coming to our boat
for sundowners this evening. Yummy
snacks will be served. Everyone who
knows me knows that I am a pretty good cook and even I am looking forward to
what I am preparing this evening – pork and cheese empanadas served with a neat
little sauce that I made up; Sicilian caponata on crackers; and smoked fish
from Ile des Saintes on toasted baguette slices with sour cream and capers and
seasonings. And the obligatory standard
cheese and crackers for those with dull eating habits. We recently met Ed and Linda and really like
them. They will be going to VZ this
summer so we likely will run into each other during the next several months.
Today was the day for naked people on chartered
catamarans. You see naked people on
monohulls too, but usually they stay in their cockpits or lay in the sun and
then wrap up in a towel to walk around on deck; they usually don’t prance
around all over the boat and pose like the nudists on some of the chartered
catamarans do. The day started with a
catamaran with 8 Germans aboard anchoring just in front of us off our port
side. They arrived in the bay with naked
men (and one was hugely fat like Buddha) standing on the bows. Truly a disgusting sight and a bit hard to
ignore when they are so close to us.
Later in the day 3 more catamarans arrived and also anchored in front of
us and on the starboard side. Each also
had naked people walking all around the decks.
Walter the bread guy was selling me a baguette when the first boat
arrived and he said, “Oh no, here comes another boat of naked customers.” How would you like to be the vendor in a
small boat tied up to the side of a big boat and talking to a stranger (who is
usually pretty fat which makes it all the worse) while eye level with his or
her bare crotch? I know the locals think
that all these nudists are being disrespectful to the local residents of the
islands. The local people dress very
modestly. You never see an adult male in
shorts and the women almost always wear dresses or long skirts.
BTW, that is how we gained a new flotation cushion for our
dinghy back in St. Thomas. Bill rescued a cushion floating by our boat
one morning and it had the boat name written on it. We did not know this boat and did not see it
near us in the anchorage, but later in the day when a few boats had left then
we could see this particular boat anchored next to shore. The people were not on their boat. When we saw them return later in the day so
Bill jumped into our dinghy and went to return their flotation cushion. BTW, these are required by US Coast Guard to
be in your dinghy or you must be wearing a life vest; no one wants to wear a
life vest so everyone has one of these cushions for each dinghy passenger. By the time Bill arrived at their boat the
man had stripped and was walking around the boat naked. So Bill turned around and we kept the
cushion. Bill wasn’t going to talk to
some guy while eye level with his bare genitalia.
Bill spent most of the morning running electrical wiring to
connect our main GPS to the Hydra 2000 in order to provide us with yet another
back-up for using route waypoints (just in case both our computers crap out at
the same time). (We are currently
looking for a third computer; can’t have too much redundancy when it comes to
electronics.) He got everything done
only to realize that the cable that we have has the wrong end connectors. It looks the same but is not. Maybe we can purchase the correct cable in Grenada. Bill also ran wiring to have our Raymarine
ST7001+ autopilot display all the info we might ever want at the helm, such as
water depth under the keel in feet instead of meters. We are now accustomed to everything reading
in meters and we both like it that way.
But sometimes in exceptionally shallow areas it would be nice to be able
to see the depth in feet. It is really
scary to maneuver through shallow areas with the depth gauge displaying 0
meters. It would be comforting to know
that there really is 1 ½ or 2 feet of water under the keel. Our depth gauge displayed 0 meters several
times at the Tobago Cays and also in Los Roques, VZ; and we know it will be
exceptionally shallow when we reach the San Blas Islands. This will be a nice feature to be able to see
shallow depths in feet for those situations.
Tito, Roberta, Ed and Linda came over this afternoon and we
played Mexican Train dominoes in our cockpit.
Our large white shade awning provided cool comfort with the 12-16 knot
breeze and we enjoyed the beautiful view of the beach while playing our silly
little game. It was fun. Even Bill enjoyed playing the game and joking
around with them.
Further notes on completion of our first year aboard. Sorry, this didn`t get updated on May 1 with
the original blog.
During our first full year aboard we sailed (or motored) a
total of 2677.75 nautical miles.
We visited the following countries:
2. British Virgin Islands
4. St. Bartholemy (St. Barths)
5. St. Kitts (St. Christopher) and Nevis
(2 separate islands but one country)
6. Guadeloupe (including
Ile des Saintes)
Vincent and the Grenadines, including
10. Carriacou and Grenada (2 separate islands but one
11. Trinidad (did not visit other island of this country
that is also called Tobago)
It has been a year of learning lots of new things about our
boat home. Sailing her has become easier
as our experience on this particular boat has grown. We both feel far more confident handling this
boat than we did a year ago.
We have fallen into patterns of behavior that just come
naturally to each of us – Bill does some tasks and I do others. He changes the engine oil and runs the
watermaker and does most of the exterior cleaning and I do the laundry and most
of the interior cleaning most of the time, but we also switch roles sometimes
without discussing it. I still do most
of the meal preparation; but when I don’t feel like bothering with it or am not
hungry on Bill’s schedule (especially breakfast and lunches) then Bill fixes
something for himself. Just because we
live together 24 hours per day in the confines of a small boat does not mean that
we do everything together all the time.
We have met many cruisers during the past year, several of
whom have become good friends and others that we will never see again. Such is the life of cruisers since most of us
are continually on the move from one place to another. Sometimes our paths cross again and sometimes
We have missed our kids and their wives and especially the
grandchildren. Since we all lived in the
same city we saw one another frequently and we do miss that. The grandkids Zachary and Elisabeth (BeBe)
have grown a lot during our absence and that is time we have missed and cannot
share with them. Hopefully they each
will remember some of the times they spent with us before we left Houston. We very much look forward to both of them
visiting us on the boat at some location in the future.
To all our family and friends who said we would never last a
year: you were all wrong! We are still enjoying this cruising life and
look forward to many more years of it.
12.52.728N; 061.11.316W Sailed
The MANDALAY left Bequia
during the night and three more Windjammer ships arrived early this morning –
the YANKEE CLIPPER, POLYNESIA, and
LEGACY. YANKEE CLIPPER was flying a
pirate flag and was firing blank shots at POLYNESIA,
who returned fire at will. Smoke flying
from both and cheering on both sides.
YANKEE CLIPPER won by reaching her anchoring spot first. Sounded like a good time was had by
passengers on both ships. The LEGACY
remained well outside the bay while these shenanigans were going on. LEGACY is such a bastardized, ugly,
hodge-podge of a ship that she shouldn’t play with two ships that still look
like the old clipper ships that they once were.
Winds were still howling but Bill and I both were ready to
move on. We had a great send-off from
Bequia. Several of our cruiser friends
were on the upper level of the ferry leaving Bequia en route to St. Vincent. They
loudly yelled “BEBE” and waved frantically at us. They were taking the ferry over just to spend
a day in St. Vincent. No one wants to sail over there because the
boat boys are so “enthusiastic” in wanting to “help” you. So a day trip on the ferry is a good way to
see St. Vincent. It was a fun sail hard to windward to Mustique;
all sails double reefed and seas at 6 to 8 feet; Force 6 on the Beaufort Scale
for all you sailors. We forgot to note
our times of departure and arrival, but our average speed had to be over 7
knots. We enjoy this type of sailing as
long as it doesn’t last too long.
Thirteen miles is the perfect distance; twenty-five miles would be
Notes to sailors about this area: The charts indicate there is a flashing light
twice every 15 seconds on the buoy that marks Montezuma Shoal just east of Britannia Bay on Mustique. The buoy is still in place but there are no
lights on it so don’t sail at night around here until you have confirmed the
location of this shoal; many boats have hit it.
The charts also indicate a flashing light once every 40 seconds on Petit
Canouan. That light is also no longer
working. However, there is a really
bright flashing light that almost looks like a slow strobe light. It marks the casino Donald Trump built at the
posh resort Raffles on the northern end of Canouan. You would think it is important to keep lights
functioning on reefs that have sunk several boats, but beware because there are
no longer lights to warn you away from these dangers.
Boats less than 70 feet in length are not supposed to anchor
at Mustique; instead, they are required to pick up a mooring ball. The moorings are very sturdy and well
maintained but they do not have pennants or painters. You must attach a line through the eye on top
of the mooring ball. Bill used our heavy
wooden boat hook to literally pick up the mooring ball and raise it high enough
to run a line through the eye and then dropped it back into the water while
holding onto the line. He cleated it off
and we were set. Chris Doyle’s sailing
guide does an injustice to Mustique because he says that it will cost $75 for a
mooring for 3 nights; he fails to mention that it is really $75 EC – which is
less than $30 USD for 3 nights on a mooring.
That is a very, very low price for a mooring and we are glad to pay
it. Chris also mentions several times in
his guide that the bay is rolly. Well,
it is but it is a gentle “rock me to sleep like a baby” type of roll.
Bill had called Basil’s from Bequia and made a reservation
for dinner tonight. Basil’s normally has
a “jump up” on Wednesday nights but not tonight. That was fine with us because we knew what we
wanted to eat at Basil’s – LOBSTER! Hard
to believe that we have been on this boat for a full year and have not eaten
lobster even once. After we arrived in
Mustique we went ashore and visited the bar in Basil’s for a quick beer and to
confirm that they had our reservation and that lobster would be available. Answer from the bartender was yes to both
So we donned our best attire and arrived a few minutes early
so we could enjoy before dinner drinks.
I finally tried a Sex on the Beach (I know, a decade or two late in
this). It was made with gin and
Cointreau and passion fruit juice and tasted darn good. Should have tried this drink long ago. Bill stuck to his normal Hairoon beer (local
beer of St. Vincent). Then we learned that the restaurant manager
had made a last minute decision that they would serve a buffet tonight, so no
menu service. There went our lobster
dinner! Neither of us likes buffets so we opted not to eat dinner at Basil’s
tonight after all. We made a reservation
for tomorrow night and confirmed that they would service regular menu service;
then returned to BEBE and had leftovers for dinner.
Early this morning found us walking around Mustique. We wanted to get started on our walk before
the day heated up. We had planned to
pick up pain au chocolat and croissants at Sweet Pea Bakery for breakfast, but
when we arrived we found that they were closed for the entire week. Tuesday was Labour Day in SVG and several
businesses used the excuse of this one holiday and closed for the entire
week. We walked about two hours and saw
everything that we wanted to see; reviving memories from our last visit so long
Last time we were on Mustique we walked all over the new
house under construction that belonged to Mick Jagger. It reminded us of a Japanese jigsaw puzzle,
as it was built somewhat like a maze. There
were long hallways that connected separate bedroom suites to a main house; very
unique. His original house was also
there on the grounds – a tiny wooden pier-and-beam house raised a couple of
feet off the ground. And his large
trampoline under the palm trees that he used for exercise. There was a great view of the sea and some
rocky tiny islands. We wanted to see if
we could find this house again. The
bartender at Basil’s told us last night that Mick had been on the island for
quite some time but had recently left.
We walked through the grounds at The Cotton House, the most
exclusive and nicest hotel in the entire Caribbean. There have been many new homes built since we
were last on Mustique. There were only
27 homes when we were last here. They
belong to people like Princess Margaret, Raquel Welch, Mick Jagger, and other
celebrities or rich and famous people.
Today there are more than 90 homes on Mustique, and they are all really
nice and very large. I particularly like
the white one on top of the hill on the southwest tip of the island; looks like
a version of the Taj Majal when viewed through my binoculars from our
cockpit. Mustique is a very well-kept
island. The other difference we found is
that there are “private drive, please do not enter” signs all over the
place. We stayed strictly on the roads
or paths that were not marked as private.
We found what we think is Mick Jagger’s house – or at least a similar
styled house in the location that we remembered.
Nearby is an empty small lot that is not marked as private,
so we walked out to the beach. And there
we found what appeared to be a stone bench located beneath the palm trees and
facing the sea. It was a beautiful
location and the bench appeared to be placed so that one could sit and watch
the ocean under the shade and enjoy the breeze.
Turned out that this is a gravesite for a man who was a sailor. On the seat of the bench is engraved the poem
about “a sailor home from the sea” and the back side of the bench is signed by
what appeared to be his grandchildren.
What a lovely location for a final resting place for anyone who loved
Bill was entertained most of the afternoon. He became the self-appointed mooring line
helper for arriving boats that looked like they needed assistance. Some boats could handle picking up a mooring
ball with no painter attached, but most could not. Have to remember that there are a lot of
charter boats down here with people who are not experienced with all facets of
boating life. Bill would watch a boat
approach the mooring field and see how they intended to handle the situation. If they were obviously confused or
short-handed, then Bill would jump into the dinghy and go help them attach
lines to the ball. Gave him something to
do and people to talk to. He also was
entertained by a girl on the beach. The
couple are apparently staying someone on the island, not on a yacht. A driver brought them to the nearby beach and
left them there for a couple of hours.
After swimming the girl walked back onto the beach and promptly stripped
out of her swimsuit and not is a modest manner.
She pranced around a bit as if she were on a stage and then donned a
cover up top. Stunning girl and provided
Bill with entertainment.
Looking forward to our special treat lobster dinner
tonight. We are considering this our
anniversary dinner to celebrate our first full year living aboard.
ARROGANT BRIT WITH POOR SEAMANSHIP
Early yesterday afternoon a British yacht arrived and
dropped a huge anchor about 40 feet behind our boat – right inside the mooring
ball field! He dropped that anchor to
the inside of 5 moorings. Bill happened
to be in the dinghy assisting another boat moor, so when he finished with the
first one he went to the Brit to see if he wanted any assistance. Bill thought the Brit was just putting down
an anchor to hold the boat in place while he took his dinghy down from the
davits so that he could do his own mooring line. But this was not the case; the Brit intended
to anchor – right in the middle of the moorings! Talk about poor seamanship, not to mention
safety issues and simple rudeness. The
Brit said he planned to drop far back (he didn’t; he ended up lying aligned
evenly with the last mooring ball).
Yachts longer than 70 feet are allowed to anchor, but only well behind
the mooring field; yachts smaller than 70 feet are required to use
moorings. This is a requirement for
conservation reasons to protect the marine life and bottom. Yachts that are anchored are still required
to pay the $75 EC conservation fee, same as if on a mooring. So it made no sense that this guy was
anchoring right in the middle of the mooring field since he was going to have
to pay anyway.
Bill: “I think they
will make you pick up a mooring.”
Brit: “I don’t think
they can make me use a mooring. That
Bill, smiling and with a shrug, and motoring away: “It’s Mustique.”
I was concerned about where he had dropped his anchor and
the fact that he did not let out enough scope and was lying too close to moored
boats. Anchored boats swing on their
anchor lines differently than moored boats swing on mooring balls. The anchored boat has a much greater arc of
swing because he has longer scope. If
the winds had changed during the night as so often happens then that Brit would
swing into one or more moored boats. But
he was far enough away from us that our boat was not in any danger, so we let
the situation alone. Not our problem.
Before we went in for dinner last night Bill watched the
harbor master do his nightly rounds to each boat to collect the
conservation/mooring fees. The guy on
the British yacht spoke with him for awhile and then the harbor master handed
over a piece of paper. The British guy
did not pay but did accept the paper from the harbor master.
We went into Basil’s and didn’t give the Brit a second
thought. Basil’s is open air like most Caribbean restaurants, and it is built out over the
water. We were seated at a corner table
with a beautiful view of the bay as the full moon was rising. While we were enjoying our pre-dinner drinks
(another Sex on the Beach for me; I’m developing a taste for that gin and
passion fruit juice), Bill noticed that the arrogant Brit was pulling his
anchor. Only thing we can figure is that
the harbor master gave him a copy of the local laws regarding anchoring and conservation
fees in Mustique; the guy still refused to pay; and the harbor master said that
he would have to leave. We watched his
stern light as he sailed away toward Canoaun in the darkness. Can you believe that someone on an expensive
yacht would chose to sail away at night rather than pay less than $30 USD and
stay on a mooring for 3 nights? Makes no
sense to us. Sheer arrogance: nobody-is-going-tell-me-what-to-do type
We enjoyed our lobster dinner last night. It was a real treat and grilled
perfectly. For those who don’t already
know this tidbit, lobsters are basically marine arachnids, meaning that they
are sea spiders or sea bugs. Sounds
yucky to think that you are eating a spider, but the darn things taste so
good! We definitely prefer the
warm-water Caribbean lobsters over the traditional cold-water Maine lobsters.
We also had a little surprise. Our waiter used to work as the bartended on 2
of the Windjammer cruises that we took back in the 1980s. What a small world. His name is Aussie and he has had a number of
jobs in a number of different places since then. Funny that we should run into him here. Bill remembered him well because Bill spent a
lot more time in the bar on the Windjammer cruises while I was prone in our
cabin due to seasickness. Aussie told us
about several of the other Windjammer employees who have since passed away –
like Ingrid who worked in the dining room on the POLYNESIA
and Offshore Eddie who was old even back then.
Offshore Eddie was a real character.
He was a master sailmaker and could repair sails by hand and could make
basically anything from canvass or sailcloth by hand. He worked on the Windjammer ships for living
quarters and all the food and rum and beer that he wanted to drink. A real old codger who did not want to give up
his life on the sea.
Aussie explained to us the employment arrangements of
working for Basil’s. The workers are
provided with housing, food and even uniforms.
They must remain on Mustique and work for 30 days and then they are
allowed to leave the island for 4 days.
Kind of reminded us of a modern version of slavery, but the workers seem
happy with this arrangement.
BTW, I bought a small container of sour cream
yesterday. Cost $9.80 USD for a
container of about 6 ounces. Good thing
that Basil’s provides meals for their employees because they certainly could
not afford to buy their own food on Mustique.
The sail was so nice that we skipped right by Canouan. We decided there was no good reason to stop there. Bill had bought a loaf bread in Mustique this
morning so that was taken care of, and we had no intentions of visiting Raffles
resort or casino; so why stop? Then we
heard a hail on the VHF “BEBE, BEBE, BEBE; ALLELUIA!, ALLELUIA!” Our friends Tito and Roberta were on their
way from Bequia to Tobago Cays and could see us. We decided to sail on to the Cays rather than
stop in Mayreau.
So that we where we sit this afternoon. Sailed 20.5 NM in F5 conditions on a broad
reach. The way sailing should always
be. We are at 12.37.890N; 061.21.385W in
the heart of the beautiful Tobago Cays, anchored behind the long southern reef
with less than a meter of water beneath our keel and facing the Atlantic Ocean.
Oh, one other thing about today. When we approached the Cays there were
several boats arriving at the same time so we were forming into a line to pass
single file in the narrow passage between the 3 islands. Two boats ahead of us in line was the same
British yacht that had refused to pay the mooring/conservation fee in Mustique
last night. He chickened out of the
tight and shallow passage and we all had to wait for him to turn back and
re-track his course. This boat has no
name on it, but it was definitely the same boat. He has 2 wind generators mounted way out to
either side on the stern; the boat is easily identifiable; and we want to avoid
him as much as possible. I think it is
funny that the arrogant expert was afraid to negotiate the difficult passage and
turned around. At least that means that
he is now anchored on the western side of the little islands rather on the
eastern side with the rest of us. We
have dubbed this man the Anchor Guy.
As of today we have lived aboard for one full year. Neither of us feels like it has been that
long. Where has the time gone? Some of our family members had bets going
that we wouldn’t last even 6 months; they were convinced that we would get
bored because we would have nothing to keep us busy. Wow, have they ever been proven wrong! There is always something to do on a boat. You might not feel like doing it, but there
is always something to do – changing oil, charging batteries, cleaning
topsides, cleaning interior, cleaning hull exterior, cooking meals, etc.— the
list never ends.
We each feel more comfortable and knowledgeable about the
systems and handling of this particular boat.
It is a good thing that we decided not to rush to the Pacific and spend
more time in the familiar sailing grounds of the Eastern
Caribbean as we gained more experience with BEBE and obtained more
spare parts that should be aboard for a circumnavigation. Now we feel more confident about being ready
to tackle the longer passages that will be required in the South Pacific. So our plans were delayed by exactly one
year; plan now is to transit the Panama Canal
in February 2008. Plans can change, but
those are our thoughts at this moment.
This morning the Windjammer MANDALAY arrived here in Admiralty Bay and anchored near us. We have enjoyed looking at her today. We did 2 trips on the MANDALAY
about 20 years ago, each time for a 2-week route from Antigua to Grenada. So looking at that boat today brought back
good memories. We talked to a few of the
passengers when we were walking around town today and learned that Windjammer
still uses the doubloons for bar drinks.
Rather than deal with cash at the ship’s bar, you purchase a paper
circle with 20 black dots around the edge; it is called a Drinker’s
Doubloon. The dots are punched out when
you buy a drink at the bar. Bill still
has one unused doubloon from one of our Windjammer trips. The one Bill has is white in color, now they
are green or yellow. The one Bill has
also cost only $5; now a doubloon costs $1 per punch dot -- $20 per
doubloon! Talk about inflation. If we had brought the old doubloon ashore
with us then we would have given it to one of the passengers or to one of the
launch attendants (Windjammer employees).
But Bill’s doubloon was back on our boat and we didn’t want to make
another dinghy ride in the strong winds, so we still have that old doubloon.
Winds have been blowing pretty hard for the past 3
days. We were supposed to go to Mustique
today but didn’t feel like beating into the strong winds. It is only 13 miles but we didn’t see any
reason to do even that short a sail if it would not be comfortable. See how lazy we have become. I did manager to paint the new name on our
dinghy. Since our boat is no longer
named Security, we saw no reason to continue to have a dinghy named
Safety. I borrowed stencils from Allayne
and painted T/T BEBE (tender to BEBE) on the dinghy. This was not easy because the dinghy was on
the stern davits and there was a lot of movement in the strong winds. So I could not paint it as neatly as desired,
but now at least it is identifiable as belonging to our boat.
We decided tonight that we would leave Bequia in the
morning, regardless of the strong winds.
Winds are not supposed to change until early next week and we don’t want
to stay here that long. So we are
leaving tomorrow morning. Not sure if we
are going to Mustique (13 miles) or to Canaouan (20 miles); either would be a
short day sail. We will decide which one
we want to visit once we are out of this bay and see where the true wind