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Showing posts with label Ship Transport. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ship Transport. Show all posts

Friday, June 3, 2011

Transport follow-up

Remember the boat that sustained sugar scoop damage during transit?  

We recently received an email from the owner advising that SevenStar was paying for the repair in full -- no deductible.  


Can't ask for a better resolution than that!


On another note, one of the other boats reported that they had gotten a rat inside their boat.  They believe this rat came aboard in the Maldives.  With all the trash and garbage in the water in Male, that is not an unrealistic assumption.  Unfortunately, this rat ate through lots of the woodwork and wiring and plumbing in the interior of their yacht.  What a mess!!  Most of us closed all sea cocks and sealed off any entrances on our boats to prevent rats from coming aboard while our boats were on the transport ship.  Getting a rat inside our boat was a big scare factor about transporting for most of us.  Definitely close off all openings if transporting your yacht.

Update Aug 2012:  We have run into several other boats who transported with us last year, and have learned that all damage caused by the rat was covered by the transport insurance.   The owners of that boat were quite happy with the repairs.

Saturday, May 7, 2011

Off-loading in Marmaris

We are a bit tardy in making this posting about the arrival of the transport ship in Marmaris.  But here it finally is.

The BBC EVEREST arrived outside Marmaris very late on Thursday 28 April 2011 and held off well outside the port area until the next morning when the pilot and clearance officials went out to meet them.  Owners of all the yachts being transported had been requested to be at the Customs Wharf at 0900 Friday morning 29 April.  Twelve of us were staying in the same apartment complex and shared a tour van to the wharf, where we joined all the others.  Our agent soon arrived, and the BBC EVEREST was soon docked.  The captain disembarked and spoke to us as a group and many photos were taken.  Then our agent was advised by the SevenStar load master of the names of the first 7 yachts that would be unloaded on the first day.  BeBe was not among the first 7.  The rest of us were told to return to the ship at 14:00 to learn which yachts would be unloaded next.  We knew all along that BeBe would not be off-loaded until sometime Saturday afternoon or even Sunday morning.  Note:  Look closely at the photo on the right and you will see a catamaran loaded on top of the large square ballast tanks.  This was SLAPDASH; he was the second yacht to splash; first was the 83-ft MUSTANG.   Every conceivable space was utilized in order to get all our yachts on this ship.

Snuggled up beneath the big new motor yacht
The Italian catamaran ANDROMEDE was placed literally beneath the stern overhang of the big new motor yacht that had been picked up in Taiwan.  There was a bit of drama regarding this big motor yacht this day because the delivery destination kept changing.  First, it was going to Malta; then here to Marmaris; then to Malta; then to Marmaris. 
Red Sea desert sand on ship's deck
A decision was finally made to deliver this new yacht to Malta.  There was a Pantaenius surveyor on board because the captain said he would not place this new yacht into the water until it had been surveyed.  Newly built yachts have been known to sink the first time floated, and he refused to take any chances.

Several of us then visited the agent's office in the covered bazaar area of Old Town and collected our passports and clearance documents; then off for a doner kebab lunch.  Everyone was understandably in a celebratory mood.  Most of us arrived back at the ship at the appointed time.  The captain invited everyone up to the bridge while we awaited the unloading schedule.

The view from way up on top was neat.  The yachts were placed very close together.  The SevenStar load master and ship's crew had done an excellent job of utilizing every meter of deck space in order to get all 17 yachts aboard.

Yacht on left allegedly sustained sugar scoop damage
Really close together!  Excellent loading job!
We heard that one yacht sustained damaged during the transport.  But, of course, that is what the insurance is for.  Remember, SevenStar included transport insurance through Pantaenius for each yacht at no additional charge.  I do not want to divulge the name of this yacht in case the owner wishes this matter to remain private.  The yacht was loaded with a portion of the rear of the boat in a position where the loading crew needed to install tie-down straps criss-crossed over the stern sugar scoop.  Unfortunately, this sugar scoop was not part of the original hull design for this yacht.  The sugar scoop had been added in New Zealand during a major refit, and the scoop was very thin GRP.  The yacht owner told several of us on the transport ship that he believes the criss-crossed tie-down straps caused the sugar scoop to crack during the transport passage.  Again, that is what insurance is for.  This is the only alleged damage that we are aware of.  IMHO, if the tie-down straps were considered necessary by the load master to prevent movement during transport, then SevenStar was correct to place these straps.  Better to have a retro-fitted modification to a yacht sustain damage than to have this yacht move on the deck during transport and cause damage to other yachts being transported.






Can you spot BeBe in there?

BeBe is the center boat.
The 7th and final yacht to be off-loaded on the first day was ESPRIT.  Chay and Katie said that ESPRIT was very quickly lifted, moved over the deck and lowered beside the ship.  A small squall was approaching over the mountains and lightning was getting heavy.  They finished off-loading and ESPRIT quickly moved to a slip in nearby Netsel Marina.

Our agent, Soner.  He is a real gem!! Saved us over $1200
But the drama was not yet over for this day.  The catamaran SLAPDASH had been the second yacht to be off-loaded.  They had moved to the anchorage off the beach at Marmaris.  When the small squall passed through, SLAPDASH was struck by lightning ... damaging their electronics.  What a shame!  To have your yacht make it safely this far and then to be struck by lightning within a few hours of getting back into the water.

We returned Saturday morning and learned that BeBe would be off-loaded that afternoon.
The load master had hoped to off-load all of the remaining 10 yachts on Saturday.  But Mother Nature had other plans.  Winds started gusting heartily shortly before our off-loading was started.  When they lifted BeBe, the wind caught the boat and caused it to swing far to starboard -- missing TAPESTRY by only a couple of inches and missing PASSAGE by a couple of feet.  But, as the saying goes, "Close only counts when playing horseshoes."  Missed by an inch or missed by a yard, it was still a miss; and all yachts were fine.  The crew were able to immediately gain control of BeBe and stop the swinging.  The crane moved over the deck and placed BeBe gently back into the sea.  BeBe was off-loaded by using the lifting points again rather than the normal straps beneath the hull.  But this time the ship was tied securely to the dock and was not rolling.  The lifting cables never touched the deck or anything else on BeBe except the shackles placed on our deck-level lifting points.  The off-loading process for BeBe was perfect!

We immediately motored over to the anchorage just outside Yacht Marine, where we spent 2 lovely nights at anchor prior to being hauled out on Monday for the routine bottom job.  While at anchor Bill cleaned what we had thought were cable scratches during the loading in Male.  Turned out to really just be cable grease; everything looked fine after a thorough cleaning.  The off-loading continued after we left the ship, but by the time B'SHERET was placed in the water the winds had picked up to the point that the load master determined it too dangerous to lift any more boats.  So PASSAGE, TAPESTRY, PROS PER AIM and ANDROMEDE were forced to wait until Sunday morning.  ANDROMEDE had to be the last yacht off because the 2 ballast tanks had to be removed before the yacht could be moved.  The captain really had wanted to get all the yachts off on Saturday so that he could enjoy a day off on Sunday, but the weather intervened.

While we were waiting for hours until time for BeBe to be off-loaded, we had stayed in the bridge and visited with the German captain.  He was a hoot!!  It was just me, Bill, our agent and the captain up there for several hours.  We truly enjoyed visiting with him.  He is part of a dying breed.  Within the next 2 decades there will be no more captains on the sea like him.  He said all the new shipping captains are Chinese.  As the current Germans and Russian captains retire, they are being replaced by Chinese.  Captain Graeber showed us lots of photos of this maiden voyage of BBC EVEREST. During the passage across the Indian Ocean and Gulf of Aden the ship had Russian snipers aboard for security.  SevenStar does not hire armed security guards, but BBC Chartering does not allow its ships through that area without armed security guards.  So our transport ship had Russian snipers as security guards.  The guards disembarked in Djibouti.  The captain also showed us videos of the installation of coiled razor wire all around the ship.  Pirates trying to board this ship would have been very cut up.  The captain said he saw no pirates on this voyage -- music to our ears!

Friday morning the captain had suggested that each yacht tip the crew of BBC EVEREST $10 USD so they could enjoy a barbeque after all the yachts were off-loaded.  Note that this is the captain requesting recognition for his crew; it is not the crew themselves asking for a tip.  We liked the way this captain tried to take care of his crew.  Also note that the crew works for the ship; they are not employees of SevenStar, which is the company we had paid for this transport.  Acknowledging the crew in this small way was appropriate in our views.  They had done a good job in difficult circumstances.

The Russian cook.  Doesn't he look like his name should be Boris?
We could tell that most of the yacht owners were not receptive to this idea.  Australians and Europeans do not believe in tipping for anything.  Several continued to complain just as they had for weeks ........ complaining about anything and everything regardless of how trivial.  We felt that the crew did a great job for all of us and deserved the treat of a barbeque, so we contributed more than our fair share to help cover what we knew the Australians and Europeans would not contribute.  Later we had an email from the captain.  Five American boats contributed and one British boat contributed -- a total of $120 -- of which BeBe had contributed $60.  The Australians and Europeans should be ashamed of themselves.  Such cheapskates!!  We are ashamed to be a part of this group.  The ship's crew brought their yachts safely through the pirates and up the notoriously bad weather of the Red Sea, and they did not see fit to participate in providing the crew with a celebratory dinner!  BTW, the ship has a Russian cook.  We heard from the crew that his cooking is terrible and they really look forward to a barbeque when they can afford it.

And this ends our saga of transporting BeBe through the increased pirate activity in the Northern Indian Ocean.  We compliment SevenStar on a job well done.  And we definitely thank Captain Juergen Graeber for delivering BeBe safely to Marmaris.

As a side note, all the crew were very polite and efficient.  They worked well together.  I really liked this one young man.  A script tattoo across his chest read "Love me or Leave me Alone"


Saturday, April 30, 2011

Arrived, Off-loaded & at anchor!

Very brief update.  S/V BeBe was off-loaded at 16:30 on Saturday, 30 April 2011.  Totally uneventful and smooth process.  SevenStar did a marvelous job for us!

Now at anchor and loving it!

More later.

Thursday, April 28, 2011

Clarification!!!

Our yacht was NOT  damaged while being loaded onto the transport ship!

We have heard from 3 people that they had heard that our yacht was damaged while being loaded onto the transport ship in Male.  This is bullshit!  This is just yet another case of the wild rumor mill of cruisers.  It is not true -- as is so often the case when cruisers tell one another "facts" that they have heard repeated by others.

I know where this rumor started.  It started when one or two members of the Blue Water Rally yachts that are in Salalah still awaiting transport via Dockwise emailed well-intentioned comments to some of their friends.  Gosh, those folks really have my sympathies!  They are in such an awful situation there and I hope their transport ship arrives soon.

We had emailed photos of BeBe being loaded aboard the transport ship in Male to a friend who owns a boat exactly like ours.  Seeing photos of how the Amel yachts can be lifted from the deck level lifting points rather than by the usual straps beneath the hull would help our friend decide whether he wanted to go this route when his yacht is (hopefully soon) loaded onto the Dockwise ship; or if he wanted to deal with the very difficult job of removing the triadic stay and use the usual straps beneath the hull.

Included in these photos were images of a few scratches BeBe received when the lifting cables began to swing while being removed when the ship started to roll.  Remember, we were loaded on the transport ship while it was at anchor in a rolly atoll, not tied to a wharf.  These few scratches from the swinging lifting cables could hardly be considered damage to our yacht.  These are minor scratches in the gel coat and will be buffed out during our haul-out next week.  It is not at all a big deal and we are not concerned about it in the least.

The lifting cables were well greased.  As they swung across the deck on BeBe the cables left grease marks.  We scrubbed these off before we got off BeBe after she was loaded.  We did not want the grease to dissolve all over the deck in the intense heat going up portions of the Red Sea.  We wanted the decks clean to begin this voyage.  Again, this was not damage; it was just a mess to clean up.  Not a big deal at all.

Yet emails have been sent to cruisers in other countries stating that our yacht was damaged during loading.  These rumors have gone full circle and now cruisers here in Marmaris are telling us that they have heard about our yacht sustaining damage while being loaded in Male.  NOT TRUE!!!   Emails also have circulated that other yachts were damaged during loading.  No one, not one person whose yacht was loaded on the same transport ship with BeBe, has mentioned receiving any damage to their yacht during loading.  These are just more rumors!  To our knowledge, not one single boat sustained damage during the loading process.

The BBC EVEREST will arrive in Marmaris sometime tonight.  In fact, it is possible that she is already docked at the Customs Wharf as I type this.  All owners or captains of yachts aboard this transport ship have been requested to meet on the ship with the agent tomorrow morning (Friday 29 April 2011) at 0900 to receive the off-loading schedule.  

This means we should be back aboard S/V BeBe within a day or two!!!  They hope to off-load at least 5 yachts tomorrow and the rest over the weekend.  I doubt BeBe will be one of the first 5 yachts to be off-loaded, so we probably will not splash until Saturday or even Sunday morning.

We fully expect the off-loading to be as non-eventful as the loading.  We would be very shocked to sustain any damage to BeBe or any of the other yachts during this process.

Added 4/29/2011:
Had a request for photos of this alleged "damage" to BeBe when loaded on the transport ship.  Here they are.  You be the judge.

cable grease on winch cover
cable grease on turnbuckle cover
cable grease on gelcoat
cable scratches on gelcoat
cable scrapes on spinnaker pole
cable grease on lower lifeline
cable scratches on gelcoat
cable scratches on gelcoat

Saturday, April 23, 2011

Transport ship update

 Yesterday SevenStar notified us that the latest ETA for the transport ship to arrive in Marmaris is 28 April.  This is wonderful news and earlier than we expected.  

Now that the transport ship has safely navigated through the dangerous Somali and Yemeni pirate waters and is safely into the Red Sea, I will identify the name of this vessel.  S/V BeBe is being transported aboard the BBC EVEREST, a brand new ship recently built in China.


Several people have contacted us to ask which other yachts are being transported on the same ship with BeBe.  I am not sure why anyone cares about this; maybe they want to know if they just happen to know the other yachts.  As I cannot see how identifying the other yachts would be a violation of anyone's privacy or a security breach since the transport ship is now beyond the piracy area, I will divulge this information.  Below is a list of the yachts aboard the transport ship, with notes of either owners or crew of each yacht and where the yacht was located when they decided to ship.  We are close friends with only some of these yachts and some we do not know at all, so the spellings might not be correct.


Committed to ship while in Cochin:
 1. BeBe -- Bill & Judy
 2. B'Sheret -- Michael & Linda
 3. Dora Mac -- Randal & Ruth
 4. Esprit -- Chay, Katie & Jamie

Committed to ship while in Galle, Sri Lanka:
 1. Mustang -- Captain Chris Bruce
 2. Slapdash -- Seth & Jaime 

Committed to ship while in Maldives:
 1. Songster -- Brian & Jackie
 2. Heartsong -- Stu & Sandy
 3. Troubadour -- Stuart & Annabelle
 4. Tapestry -- Ian & Lesley
 5. Raven -- Tim & Karen
 6. Njord -- Chris & Susanna
 7. Passage -- Bud & Nita
 8. Skedaddle Again -- Mike & Sue
 9. Andromede -- Claudio Agnoletto
10. Lureline -- John & Kerry 

Loaded in Singapore:
1. Pros Per Aim -- unknown owners or crew; do not know if Marmaris is final destination.

Additionally, there was one large new motor yacht which is being delivered from the manufacturer.  I do not know the destination of this large motor yacht.  Obviously, the transport ship continues to other destinations after off-loading our yachts in Marmaris.


We have checked out Yacht Marine and have met with the facilitator who is helping arrange labor and materials for our haul-out.  Like everyone else on the above list, we are anxiously awaiting arrival of our yacht so we can begin a new chapter of our briefly interrupted circumnavigation.  

And, yes, when we return to the Caribbean both Bill and I will consider ourselves to have circumnavigated even though for roughly 3600 NM S/V BeBe was transported on a cargo ship.  We sailed more than 2500 NM going south to New Zealand and then back up to continue our route around the globe in the Tropics.  Plus the 400 NM north to Cochin and then 450 NM south to Male to meet the transport ship.  Those additional miles about equal the same distance that BeBe will have been transported.  Our total mileage sailed will equal the distance for a circumnavigation; we will consider ourselves circumnavigators.  Purists can be as pedantic if they choose.  We will be happy with our definition of the word.

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Loaded !

Getting S/V BeBe loaded onto the transport ship and getting out of Male was a tiny bit of an ordeal.   By far the largest annoyance was listening to the whining of some of the other yachts being transported.  Most of these folks have sailed more than half-way around the world, some visiting 80 countries thus far.  One would think they would have learned to "go with the flow" by now.  Instead, they whined and bitched every time anything changed from anticipated schedule.  Get over it, guys!  

BTW, some people have questioned why we removed the sails and cleared the deck so thoroughly before shipping BeBe.  We believe that yachts that are being transported, especially in the Red Sea, should be prepped as if for a heavy storm or gale.  Think about it.  Winds in the Red Sea are normally from the north and typically average 25 knots, with gusts to 50 knots not unusual.  The ship will be motoring at around 15 knots into the 25 knots or higher winds.  In effect, the yachts on the deck are encountering 40 to 55 knots of wind.  Having recently endured 5 days in winds of 40 to 60 knots, we knew first-hand just how strong that is!!!  Any yacht being transported should be prepped as if to encounter a Cat 1 hurricane.  Also, anything that blows off one yacht will fly into another yacht and cause damage.  Each yacht owner owes it to all the other yacht owners whose boats are on that ship's deck to take all efforts to prevent causing damage to another's boat.

We received a preliminary loading schedule indicating that we would be loaded on a Sunday morning.  I visited the Emirates airline office on a Thursday and booked our flights for the following Monday morning, then visited the agent and got us cleared out with Immigration.  We were working around the Holy Day when everything is closed on Fridays and the airline office which closes both Fridays and Saturdays.  The agent said we had 6 days from the date our passport was stamped to depart the Maldives.  BeBe was scheduled to be loaded on a Sunday morning at 10:00.  Then the agent called on Saturday and said that our 30-day visa would expire on Sunday morning at 11:00.  I played dumb and he got tired of trying to explain the visa situation to me, and he finally agreed that our visas could be extended until our departing flight on Monday morning.  Immigration was granting us a 23-hour extension to our visas----remember, we had already cleared out at this point.  Frankly, I believe the agent was just looking to charge yet another fee.  We later learned that the agent wanted an additional $500 fee to extend visas for 3 days for friends on ESPRIT, plus a penalty fee to Immigration.  What a rip off!!!  They refused to pay the additional agent's fee and instead paid a penalty of $265 to Immigration when they cleared out at the airport.

Then the load master notified us that the entire loading schedule had been revised.  Now we would not be loaded until Monday morning.  We explained the Immigration problem, and were pleasantly surprised when we were hailed on the VHF and told to report to the transport ship at 14:00 on Sunday afternoon.  The first yacht would be loaded at 13:00 and BeBe would be the third yacht loaded on this first day of loading.  We left the anchorage right behind S/V B'SHERET and motored over to the transport ship.

We spent the following 3 hours slowly going in circles around the transport ship while B'SHERET was loaded.  The sea looked totally calm, but there was a swell that rolled the transport ship 3 degrees -- which made the crane cables and slings swing like pendulums.  It was wild!  And it took the full 3 hours to get B'SHERET loaded on the deck.  Next TAPESTRY was loaded.  The load master used different straps to lift TAPESTRY and that seemed to work better, but the waves from all the go-fast speed boats zooming all around the transport ship still caused TAPESTRY to swing wildly.  While TAPESTRY was being loaded, we were tied to the port side of the transport ship at 16:30.  Because of the swinging problem, the load masters were unable to get the yachts as close together as they needed to be in order for all the yachts to fit onto this ship.  This could be a real problem!!!

At 17:30 they were ready to load BeBe when the Port Authority official said they must stop work for the day.  He refused to allow any work after sunset, and the sun was soon to set.   The transport ship was equipped with lights and the crew is accustomed to working through the night.  The load masters requested permission to complete our loading before stopping work for the day, but the Port Authority official stood his ground and refused us to be loaded.  So back to the anchorage for the night.  We were more than a little disappointed, to say the least.  This wrecked our flight bookings, the Istanbul hotel reservations and our Immigration extension.  But there was no point whining about it.  Just accept the changes in plans and move on.  We got online and changed our outbound flight, the local hotel and the Istanbul hotel.

At 08:00 on Monday morning we were back tied next to the transport ship.  The load master decided to lift BeBe with our deck-level lifting points (no lifting straps placed beneath the hull).  This would be the simplest way to lift our yacht since we did not want to deal with removing the triadic stay unless absolutely required to do so.  Our triadic stay is swaged and is static; it does not have turnbuckles to adjust the length.  To remove the triadic stay would involve first loosening the mizzen baby stays and the mizzen back stays, and taking a halyard from the mizzen mast to a forward winch and tilting the mizzen mast forward until the tension on the triadic stay was loosened.  Then Bill would have to go up the mainmast and dis-attach the triadic stay from the main mast.  This is involved and would take a lot of time.

Using the deck-level lifting points would be much simpler.  We simply had to remove the topping lift for the main boom and remove the mainmast back stay -- which has turnbuckles and is a breeze to remove.  These needed to be removed to make space for the crane hook and cables.  Took us less than 10 minutes to accomplish those 2 tasks, then they were ready to lift BeBe.  They used 3 sets of shackles on the starboard side and only 1 set of shackles on the port side.  This, in effect, caused the cables to be longer on the starboard side than on the port side of BeBe.  Remember, the crane was also on the starboard side. This would tilt the yacht slightly to port and prevent the lifting cables from being too tight against the triadic stay.  This process worked fine.  The cable was tight up against the triadic stay and deflected it a slight amount -- sounded terrible -- but later when the cables were removed the triadic stay looked straight and taut as ever.  No harm done.

They lifted BeBe and moved her slowly over the deck next to TAPESTRY.  There was much less swaying and swinging this morning than the previous day when they loaded B'SHERET and TAPESTRY.  They were able to place BeBe less than 1 meter from TAPESTRY.  The load master's goal was to place each yacht no more than 1 meter from each other.  Unfortunately, B'SHERET was 3 to 4 meters from where they wanted her placed; and TAPESTRY was more than 3 meters from where they wanted her placed.  This wasted a lot of deck space.  At this point it appeared that not all of the 16 yachts were going to fit on this deck.  We were terribly afraid that a couple of yachts would not make onto this transport ship.  But it would serve no purpose to say anything to the rest of the yachts waiting to be loaded.

We tidied up BeBe and washed off the grease on the deck from the lifting cables; then climbed down onto the ship's deck with our luggage to await a launch to shore.  While waiting, we watched them load RAVEN -- which was the smoothest and easiest of the 4 yachts loaded thus far.  There was no rolling and swinging and RAVEN was moved easily to exactly the spot where the load masters wanted her placed.  PASSAGE was next to be loaded and was tied to the side of the ship when the loading crew went to lunch.  While they were at lunch the ship started to roll again and the crane began swinging wildly.  The lifting straps had been secured to the ship's deck, but not secured properly.  It was calm one second and the crane was swinging wildly the next second.  The straps were flipping pallets of jack stands all over the deck.  The deck hand on watch radioed for help and 6 men came running up from the lunch room.  It took all 7 of them to gain control of the straps swinging with the crane.  They raised the crane and secured the straps tightly to padeyes on the deck.  No more swinging possible now!

The launch still had not showed up.  Bill spoke with the agent representative on the ship and was told that the agent planned to send only 1 launch at the end of the day to pick up everyone who had been loaded that day.  What!!  So we were supposed to stand in the sun on the ship's deck for another 6 hours?  We spoke with the SevenStar load master and he went ballistic with the agent's rep.  This agency has annoyed many of us for numerous reasons.  Lots of fees and very few services provided.  SevenStar had already had enough of dealing with this agency, and they had only been there a few days.  After telling the agent rep that he was fired and must get off the boat if he didn't get a launch out there immediately, the launch arrived within 10 minutes.  The launch dropped us and the crew of RAVEN back at Huhulmale (airport island).  We grabbed a taxi to the hotel (where our luggage had been sitting since Saturday afternoon).

Then we received a phone call from Emirates saying that we must personally go to the airport and purchase our tickets before 16:00 or we would lose the flights and the special price rate.  We had been able to re-schedule the flights online the previous night after we found out at the last minute that BeBe would not get loaded on Sunday after all.  No problem changing the flight from Monday morning to Tuesday morning -- but now they wanted us to get to the airport immediately and pay for the tickets.  Okay; not a problem.

At the airport on Tuesday morning we ran into RAVEN, PASSAGE, SONGSTER and Sandy from HEARTSONG.  At this point it was doubtful if HEARTSONG would fit onto the transport ship, but Sandy was flying home anyway.  The big topic of conversation was whether all the boats would fit onto the ship.  It was agreed by everyone that there was no way for all 15 yachts to fit on that ship deck as it stood this day.  All the yachts would need to be placed much closer together.  Turns out that is exactly what they did.

We spoke with ESPRIT.  The transport ship had been moved to a wharf over at "garbage island."  ESPRIT was tied alongside.  They were supposed to be loaded at 08:00 but had been told to stand by while the yachts on the deck were re-positioned.  This took most of the day, and then the rest of the loadings went very smoothly.  What a difference being tied to the wharf made!  No more wildly swinging crane in the gentle swell and hard waves of speed boats and ferries.  We do not know if they moved BeBe again or not.  Guess we will find out when we climb aboard the ship when they unload BeBe in Marmaris.

All 16 yachts did get loaded.  However, the loading took 5 days rather than the anticipated 3 days.  Big deal.  All the whiners and complainers should be ashamed of themselves.  Loading safely is the important thing.  Following a preliminary loading schedule would have been pure luck.  Until a yacht is actually loaded onto the transport ship, it is impossible to predict which yacht will be loaded next and exactly where it will be placed.  As I said earlier, learn to go with the flow and quit your bitching.

Flying over the Maldives was very pretty.  It is easy to understand why this is a remote resort paradise.  Also easy to understand why these resorts do not want cruising yachts anchored nearby.  Sort of spoils the exclusivity claims of the resorts when there is a cruising sailboat right in your face.

When the plane reached the coast of Oman, the sky below changed from blue to beige.  Nothing to see but sand.

Flying over the United Arab Emirates toward Dubai was interesting.  Cannot say that it was beautiful, but it was interesting.  The desert changes quite a bit.  Some places were mountains.  Some looked like hard-packed flat sand.  Some places looked like loose-packed sand mountains or large dunes.  And some places looked like an ocean of loose sand. And it all looked very hot!

We could have stayed in Dubai for several days.  It would have cost only an additional airline fee of $21 each for the layover.   And there are a few economical hotels.  But in researching Dubai we did not find anything there of particular interest to either of us.  So our only stop in Dubai was inside the airport.  A modern city in an ancient desert on the coastline of the Persian Gulf.  I would go completely out of my mind living in Dubai.  Glad we skipped visiting there.

We opted to fly onward to Istanbul, which I will relate in another posting.  Since arriving in Turkey we are unable to view any blogging websites.  I can access the Dashboard for this blogger website, but I cannot view even our own blogger website.  Also, photos being uploaded change to strange box characters so photos might not be shown correctly.  Guess that will have to wait until we are in another country and have again have full access.


Monday, April 4, 2011

Insult the Americans?

"Hi ___________ - Many thanks for your help list of preparations but I am concerned that you have not included removing the ensign.  We feel very strongly that the site (sic) of an American ensign flying from a transported yacht would been seen as a very provocative gesture and would thereby put at risk all the yachts on board.  I think it would be helpful to bear this in mind. - (sender's yacht name omitted to protect their identity)"

This message was emailed to every yacht that will be on the transport ship with us.  Of course, we, and we assume all the other yachts transporting, fully intended to remove our ensigns when our vessels are loaded onto the transport ship.  It makes no sense to subject the flags to the wear and tear of the anticipated heavy winds up the Red Sea.  And the flags really would serve no purpose as our yachts are cargo aboard the transport ship.

However, this message -- emailed to everyone and not just to the one boat that had prepared a list what they planned to do to prep their yacht for transport -- is in extremely poor taste.  In fact, it is downright insulting!  The sender is British, I believe.   

Does he or she honestly think the UK ensign is any more warmly received by the Somali and Yemeni pirates than is the US ensign?  
 

Goodbye Male! Well ---- within a week or 2 -- maybe


Hello again from Male where we are getting closer to the date when our transport ship should arrive (sometime this upcoming week).  This past week we’ve taken advantage of light winds and have begun prepping S/V BeBe for shipping. 

We have made a few trips over to Male.  Last Monday the women from 5 yachts got together for a Ladies Day Out.  Which meant we walked all over the island of Male for several hours and then ate lunch.  We walked from one end of the island to the other, from one side to the other.  There are many ultra-narrow alleyways that are considered streets, but far too narrow for even the most compact automobile.  Perfect for the thousands of motorcycles on this island.  

On one street I noticed a shuttered business.  The signs looked new, but the business was closed.    The name of this shuttered business was "G-Spot" -- which I thought was a very unusual name for a shop in a Muslim country.  Could they have meant something else?  In the window and on the entry door were posted signs that explained why the business was closed.  Guess someone did not think this business was appropriate for a Muslim country after all.

We visited the library and the national museum to see an art exhibit of paintings by a Maldivian woman.  We were surprised at her subject for this collection.  It seemed dark and violent, and several paintings depicted women overpowering men in one manner or another -- such as an obviously female bent knee crushing down upon an obviously male head.  Seemed very controversial for this Muslim nation to allow for a public exhibition.  The one unique trademark for this artist is that she uses coffee in her paintings.   We also visited the clearance agent's office because 1 boat needed additional paperwork completed.  The agent recommended a place for lunch and we followed his recommendation and visited The Food Bank.  This restaurant was nice, somewhat expensive; and the food was nothing to brag about.  I had a seafood salad which turned out to be a small serving of chopped octopus with 2 tiny shrimp, stirred into a sweet spicy sauce and served on a single leaf of lettuce.  Not the best lunch I have eaten but also not the worst.

Another day Bill and I went into Male for a lunch of pizza.  He ordered a Coke and I ordered a Fanta.  There is a Coca-Cola bottling plant on one of the atolls here in the Maldives.  Some of the cruisers have toured the factory -- just to have something to occupy their time.  When our drinks were delivered to the table, Bill and I took one look at the 2 cans and then looked at one another with smiles.  Makes perfect sense though.  All that old equipment worked fine; might as well sell it off somewhere.  And that somewhere turns out to be the Maldives.  When was the last time you saw some of these?


Last Friday evening the anchorage had a dinghy raft-up.  We hadn't done this since July 4, 2008, in Moorea.  It was fun and the foods were yummy and varied.  For those not familiar with a dinghy raft-up, it is exactly what it sounds like.  A group of dinghies go to a designated spot.  One sets an anchor and the rest tie off onto the anchored dinghy, all tightly together.  Then dishes of food are passed from one dinghy to another, round and round, and a good time is had by all.  Each boat brings enough food to share with all present, and each boat brings their own beverages.  Funny thing is that only the 7 American boats in the anchorage participated in this raft-up.  Present were crews from ESPRIT, PASSAGE, RENEGADE, B'SHERET, HEARTSONG, VOYAGER and us.  None of the Brits joined us, nor did the one Swedish yacht who will be transporting.  Maybe they did not understand the concept, although I don't see how any boat could make it this far around the world and not be familiar with a dinghy raft-up.  At any rate, we all enjoyed visiting and chatting while consuming copious amounts of food and drink.  We did this in an area at the northern end of the anchorage but well away from the resort on the tiny island up there.  We all know that we are not allowed into "their" waters.  This was the first time Bill and I had been over there, and it was a lovely shallow area.

It is boring sitting here but at least we are sitting in beautiful surroundings.  People on a few of the boats waiting for transport have been spending their time snorkeling and diving.  This is a divers paradise!  We are told that snorkeling is not worth bothering to do.  Near the surface there is nothing much to see.  And the currents can be dangerous; so if one snorkels, one should hold onto the dinghy painter so as not to be swept out to sea or out into the middle of this huge atoll.  But down deep there is lots of live colorful corals, plenty of varied fish and every type marine life conceivable.   Chay, Katie and Jaimie on ESPRIT have made a number of dives, including night dives.  They said the highlights were a sea turtle right up close and personal, several large eels, a huge puffer fish, and a lion fish, as well as a school of long, needle nosed fish.  

As the days wind down to the transport ship arriving we will continue to get BeBe ready for shipping and the expected 45 knots of wind, green water over the bow of the ship, and sand storms in the Red Sea.  We are taking everything off the deck, pickling the water maker, removing screens, and a myriad of other things to ensure that BeBe arrives in Turkey in good shape. 

The load master will arrive in Male in a few days and we hope to meet with him well before the transport ship finally arrives.  We need to clarify whether he wants us to remove our triadic stay or not.  Amels have lifting points and can be lifted from the top, rather than lifting with straps beneath the hull as is normally required with most yachts.  If the load master is familiar with Amel design and is comfortable with lifting from the lifting points on the side at deck level, then we will not have to remove the triadic stay (piece of wire rigging that runs between the rear mizzen mast and the main mast).  If the load master is not experienced with Amel design, then he will want us to remove the triadic stay.  Removing this stay is not a simple process and Bill hopes to avoid having to do this.  We have talked with one Amel owner who has shipped his yacht 5 times and has always used the lifting points for this process.  So we know it works well as long as the load master is experienced with this technique.

One of our frustrations has been trying to make travel arrangements without a specific date – we can’t make plane or tour reservations until we have a firm load date for BeBe and we won’t have that until the transport ship gets here!  Fortunately, Emirates Airlines has been very accommodating and flexible.   Linda and Michael on B'SHERET negotiated a very reasonable fare of $600 each, Male-Dubai-Istanbul. on Emirates Airlines for all people who are transporting yachts via SevenStar.   As soon as each boat receives its loading time schedule, they should immediately go to the local Emirates office and purchase tickets.  Emirates will allow one change at no charge in case the loading does not go as scheduled.  It is really nice to be dealing with a small local office in a situation like this.  And, thanks to Linda and Michael for negotiating such a great rate!

My boat shipping preparation project for today is to defrost the freezer.  We have finally emptied the freezer.  All those great steaks purchased in Singapore have been consumed, along with a number of bottles from our stash of wine.  Bill has a project above deck.  At least the wind is blowing nicely today to keep us cool as we do these projects.  The past week has been windless and extremely hot and humid.  Today is gorgeous!

Friday, March 25, 2011

2 weeks in Paradise; how much more can we endure!

It is hard to believe that another 12 hours will mark 2 full weeks that we have been sitting in this anchorage.  At least it is beautiful.  That helps with the boredom.  I have read several books and am currently laboring through the 1100 page "Alaska" by James Michener.  As much as I love to read, even reading is becoming a trifle boring.  Read a few pages; look at the pretty water; read a few pages; watch the hundreds of hydroplanes and resort go-fast ferries zipping back and forth between the resort islands and the airport; read a few pages; watch the turtles and rays; read a few pages; watch the local men do weird things on strange boats; finally it is time to cook dinner and then watch a couple of hours of DVDs; and another day has passed.  


Several times we have taken the ferry over to the main island of Male to enjoy lunch and do a tiny bit of grocery shopping for perishables.  That helps the day pass much more quickly as this usually turns out to be a 4 to 5 hour excursion.  

Arrival of the transport ship is delayed.  We are not upset by this because we sort of expected it  not to arrive on time.  It is a brand new ship that just left the shipyard where it was built near Beijing.  It stops in Korea, Taiwan, Saigon and then picks up the cradles in Singapore; then straight to Male.  As of today the ship is en route from Taiwan to Saigon.  Originally it was supposed to arrive in Male by March 25 (today), but obviously that did not happen; and arrival is delayed by a few weeks.  As long as it arrives here in time to get to Turkey in time for us to sail to meet our grandchildren in Athens in June as planned, we will be happy.   Whether the transport ship arrives in Male the third week of March or the third week of April, it doesn't matter to us.  In fact, later is better as the southwest monsoon strengthens and forces the Somali pirates back to their shores.  That decreases the chances of our transport ship being hijacked, so delay is not a bad thing.   We planned to have the boat hauled immediately in Marmaris for routine bottom paint, service the bow thruster and service the autoprop.  But if the transport ship is delayed too long, then we can simply delay that haul-out until late August or even September.  Some of the other yachts waiting for transport are stressing out over the slight delay; we aren't worried about it.


One day we found Wall Street in Male.  Bill couldn't resist snapping a photo with his phone.


Other photos he could not resist were the motorcycles driving off the ferry.  These motorcycles are loaded onto the ferry before the passengers; then they are last off when reaching the ferry destination.  The drivers hold the cycles upright in the rear of the passenger cabin during the short ferry trip.  Then they drive the cycles down a rickety moveable ramp.  Doesn't this all sound ever so safe?  We watched one man fall while attempting to ride down the ramp.  Fortunately, his leg wasn't broken.

This life jacket sign posted in the front of the passenger cabin in the ferry caught my eye. (As always, click on image for larger view.)   Notice it reads right to left.  That is what caught my attention.  I looked at it as we westerners normally would and wondered why the kid had removed the jacket in the second image.  That is when I realized that this sign reads right to left instead of left to right.  And what the heck is with that crazy part tight around the neck?  Looks like it would choke the wearer when in the water.  


Today we went ashore with folks from a couple of other boats.  It is a Friday -- Holy Day -- and everything supposedly is closed.  But they had scouted out a small restaurant on this airport island that serves customers in the few tourist hotels on Hulhule Island.  This restaurant told them they would be open on Friday, so we went for a nice walk around the island.  Arrived at the restaurant and they were closed.  Figures.  

But there was someone inside and he said they would open at 13:30.  It was only 12:45 but he opened up early just for us.  That was nice and kept us from having to sit out in the heat for 45 minutes waiting for the normal opening time.   Several of us opted for the chicken submarine sandwiches; and they were pretty good.  Randal on M/V DORA MAC ordered a Beef Burger with Cheese.  One normally would expect to be served a regular cheeseburger.  In Muslim countries there is never a hamburger on any menu.  It is always called a beef burger -- musn't even taint the menu with the word "ham" even though there is no pork in what the rest of the world calls a hamburger.  And one doesn't order a cheeseburger because then you might get a hamburger bun filled with plain cheese.  So to get a cheeseburger, you order a beef burger with cheese.  Notice the "beef" in Randal's beef burger today -- a scattering of very thin slices of beef about 1/2-inch by 1-inch in size.


Yesterday we removed the large chart of the Indian Ocean and Red Sea from our saloon table and replaced it with a chart of the Mediterranean Sea and Black Sea.  Over the chart we place a sheet of stratoglass that is cut to fit the table.  This holds the chart in place.  (Note:  this works for us because our table has a high-gloss finish; this will not work on most boat tables with the dull finish.)  We might not physically be in the Med yet, but we have mentally moved on. 










Saturday, March 12, 2011

Farewell dinner

Since four of the five American boats left in Cochin would soon be departing to sail down to Male, Maldives to transport our yachts to Turkey, we thought it would be nice to have a farewell dinner together with all the Americans.  S/V ESTRELLITA will soon be the only American yacht left in Cochin.  They will return to Thailand and spend another year in SE Asia.  The rest of us are shipping to the Mediterranean.

We took the ferry to Ernakulan and hailed 4 tuk-tuks for the ride to The Grand Hotel on MG Road.   We have been told that every city in India has an MG Road.  Obviously, it must stand for Mahatma Ghandi.  This would be like every city in America having an MLK road or street or boulevard; obviously, named in honor of Rev. Martin Luther King, Jr.

The 4 tuk-tuks considered this to be a race.  These tuk-tuks are adventurous enough when they are driving "normally."  Racing is downright scarey.  But nothing any of us could say would slow them down.  Ours was the last to arrive at the hotel.  But the others cheated because they came in the rear entrance; whereas, we arrived at the proper front entrance.

Dinner was good, as usual.  (Mushroom masala and nan again for me; going to miss that dish -- and mundane grilled tiger prawns and french fries for Bill).  Visiting with everyone was fun.  We will miss Bill and Amy.  I know they will enjoy traveling SE Asia later this year and will meet a whole new set of cruisers as the next year's group arrive in the fall.  They will have some adventures going the South African route next year, more than likely.  I don't see the Somali pirate situation improving over the next year to the point that they would feel comfortable sailing across the northern Indian Ocean next season.  So South African it will be for them.   Maybe we will meet up again in the Caribbean in a few years.

In the group photo from left to right:  Jaime and dad Chay from S/V ESPRIT,  Ruth and Randal from M/V DORA MAC,  Bill and Judy from S/V BeBe, Amy and Bill from S/V ESTRELLITA, Linda and Michael from S/V B'SHERET, and Jaime's mom Katie from S/V ESPRIT.

Everyone in the photo above transported their yachts to Marmaris to avoid piracy except for Amy and Bill on S/V ESTRELLITA.  Bill really wanted to circumnavigate on his own keel.  So they turned around to Phuket, spent a full year in SE Asia, personally replaced the chainplates on their boat as a safety precaution for the notoriously rough southern Indian Ocean, and then sailed the South Africa route.

The highlight of the evening was when someone said he thought that Ronald Reagan would go down in history as being the best president ever in the USA.  Ruth is a die-hard Democrat; and, as such, does not have a high opinion of ANY Republican president -- and most definitely does not think highly of Ronald Reagan.  The look on her face when he said that was hysterical.  Can't remember laughing so hard over a facial expression.   Of course, the person who said that then elaborated why he believes this.  And she could not argue with any of his reasons because he worked in government through several presidents and knew al lot of the inside doings; whereas, Ruth knew nothing about any of it.  Right or wrong doesn't matter.  Everyone is entitled to their own opinion when it comes to politics and government.  It was the look on her face that was so very funny.  Bill tried to get her to duplicate that expression for the camera, but she couldn't do it twice.

A British sailor flew to the new Karpaz Gate Marina that is being built in Northern Cyprus -- the one where we have been provided a free berth for one year beginning in May 2011.  This marina is supposed to be completed by May 2011.  He also plans to berth there and wanted to see first-hand how it was progressing.  Here are a couple of photos taken earlier this week.  I seriously doubt this marina will be completed by May.  But maybe it will be close enough to completion by the time we arrive in late August.  As long as there is electricity and water, a secure dock and transportation to markets, then we will be happy there.

I have scheduled this to post on March 12 -- the day that we should arrive in Male.  I did not want to publish that we were at sea, just being extra cautious what with all the increased piracy in the general area.  Will update again soon after our arrival in Male.

Happy  Birthday to our son Aaron, born this day 36 years ago in Fort Lauderdale, Florida.  But really a true Texan through and through because he was conceived in Texas and returned there when he was 7 months old and has lived in Texas ever since.